Having a vegetable garden could do wonders for your kitchen and exterior space. On the one hand, you get fresh garden produce for your recipes, while on the other hand, the garden can contribute to your space’s aesthetics. You can try different layouts, from vertical gardens to raised garden beds or even square-foot gardens. 

Whether you are new to gardening or a seasoned gardener, there are a variety of crops you can try. Some common choices include tomatoes, peas, lettuce, and radishes. Here are a few vegetable garden designs that can work with different spaces.

Take a look!

The Basics of Vegetable Garden Design 

As with most garden designs, location is the first critical factor to consider before designing a vegetable garden. Once you’ve figured out the location, you can decide on the design choice and the type and size of the garden that is suitable for the space. Here are some key factors to consider.

Soil Type: While vegetables need plenty of water to be healthy and robust, they don’t thrive in soggy soil. Most vegetables thrive in well-draining, loamy soil. So, before you select the location, you need to inspect the type of soil. Is it well-aerated, or is it compact? If the soil is compact, you may need to amend it before growing your veggies. 

Location: Vegetables thrive in a space with total sun exposure, crucial for healthy vegetables and fruits. The ideal location will be where the plants can receive 6-8 hours of full sun exposure daily. The proximity of a water source and good drainage will also play a crucial factor. The nearer the plants are to a water source, the easier it’ll be to irrigate them.

Size: Of course, the available space will determine the size and design of your vegetable garden. It can also help you choose the type and amount of plants to grow. Once you’ve decided on a suitable size, you can sketch the garden’s layout on graph paper. Ensure you plot the garden to scale and that there’s enough space for all the crops you want to grow. 

Type of Garden: The type of garden can be determined by the soil type and climate of the area. If you have a rocky yard or compact soil that needs to be thoroughly amended before growing vegetables, you can opt for raised garden beds or containers. Raised garden beds can be structured to fit the size of your garden space, and they also make the gardening and maintenance process easier. For small spaces such as patios, balconies, or small yards, you can go for container gardens. 

Vegetable Garden Layouts To Try

Whether you have a big or small yard, these layout options will be perfect for your vegetable garden. 

Vertical Gardens 

Vertical gardens take up less space and are usually cheaper to develop than other types of gardens. Since they take up relatively less space, they are perfect for small spaces. Vertically growing the plants makes it easy to access and replant them. 

The structure of the garden can be made from fabric or wood. Alternatively, you can opt for a commercial plant that’s usually made of plastic. Good soil and adequate lighting are critical when growing a vertical garden. The only major downside is that you have to water it frequently; two times a day should suffice.

The best vegetables to grow in a vertical garden are compact varieties that don’t take up much space, like baby kale, salad greens, dwarf peas, bush beans, and herbs. These plants mature quickly and have a shallow root system, so they won’t wither in your vertical garden.

Homestead Gardens 

If you have ample space or enjoy preserving food by freezing canning or mass-producing garden produce, then a homestead garden or a large in-ground garden will be ideal for you. Homesteads are usually larger than traditional vegetable gardens and may cover up to an acre of land. 

Like row gardens, you should aim to maximize produce in such gardens. Ensure you have healthy soil and select highly productive plants and their cultivars. It’s also essential to control weeds and ensure your plants have full sun exposure and a consistent supplier of moisture and other crucial elements such as water. 

If you’re planning on growing a homestead garden, invest in tools and systems that’ll make work easier and increase the garden’s productivity. For example, you can invest in a gas-powered tiller that can help break up the soil and help with weeding once the plants have grown.

For watering, you can use a drip irrigation system that keeps the roots moist and prevents water from reaching the leaves and fruit, which could cause diseases and rot.

Raised Garden Beds 

Raised gardens have recently seen a lot of applications in outdoor spaces; using them for a vegetable garden is the latest one. They come in different shapes and sizes, and you can use various materials to make them, from bricks, wood, metal, plastic, or even repurposed containers.

If you live in a rocky area with poor or impoverished draining soil, a raised garden is the ultimate solution for a healthy vegetable garden. 

Raised garden beds are also perfect for areas with a short growing season. The soil in a raised garden bed warms quicker in spring, enabling you to grow vegetables such as lettuce, peas, or strawberries. 

One critical advantage of raised garden beds is that they’re easy to maintain, so weeding is much easier. This makes such gardens ideal for people with limited mobility. Additionally, they’re much better suited for root vegetables since the soil isn’t compacted by walking on it. 

Partial Shade Gardens 

If you don’t have an ideal place where your plants can receive full sun, don’t fret. You can still grow a partial shade garden. This can either be a raised bed, ground planted, or even in a container.

Some leafy vegetables, such as leaf lettuce, kale, spinach, collards, and Swiss chard, can grow in areas that receive 3-4 hours of sunlight. Other plants that can thrive in such conditions include cabbages, radishes, beets, cauliflower, and broccoli. 

Square Foot Gardens 

A square-foot garden is a more advanced version of a raised garden bed. Here, the bed is divided into squares so you can plant individual crops in each garden. The easiest way to build a square-foot garden is to use 12 x 12’’ containers. You can also add walkways between the gardens so that accessing the garden is easy.

Even though you can grow any vegetable or plant in your square-foot garden, it’s better to go for varieties that don’t spread or grow exceptionally large, such as those that extend over the bed. For example, try fingerling potatoes over russets or cherry tomatoes over larger varieties such as beefsteak.

Another good vegetable variety to grow in your square-foot garden is lettuce and herbs, which can be frequently harvested and replanted during the growing season.

Four Square Gardens 

Like foot-square gardens, four-square gardens follow the structure of raised garden beds. In this structure, they’re made of four raised garden beds with paths in between that facilitate the gardening process. The design comes from early English cottage gardens, divided into four sections by two intersecting paths, hence the term. 

You can customize the beds to fit your space. They make the perfect garden for a variety of vegetables while providing easy access to the garden. You don’t need to raise the beds high off the ground—about 6 to 8 inches will do just fine. 

One of the best things about four-square gardens is that they can act as a landscaping feature for your outdoor space. Some gardeners use a fruit tree as the centerpiece of each raised bed, while seasonal vegetables are grown in patterns around the tree, creating an aesthetically pleasing garden.

Gardening in Rows 

A garden in rows is the perfect addition to a small backyard. You need to amend the soil on the ground so it’s loose when you pick it up and slip through your fingers. 

The best time to amend the soil and add supplements and fertilizer for a row garden is during the fall season. However, this should be at least three weeks before you begin planting in springtime.

Choose productive plants that’ll maximize the space in the row garden, such as radishes, tomatoes, lettuce, turnips, snap beans, carrots, greens, and peppers.

Small In-Ground Gardens

In-ground spaces may sometimes feel absolute, but in a space as small as 10 x 10 feet, you can grow various vegetables for a small family. All you need is good, well-draining soil to ensure the plants are well-supplemented.

In-ground gardens have similar growing tips to row gardens. The type of plants you grow is entirely up to you, whether you like leafy greens or root vegetables. You can improve the yield by planting in the spring and fall. Here are a few plants you can grow during the summer season:

• Pepper plants 
• Eggplants 
• Bush bean plants 
• Trellised or caged indeterminate tomato plants 
• Cucumber plants

Choosing the Right Plants For Your Vegetable Garden 

The design of your garden will be significantly determined by the vegetable seedlings you decide to plant or the seeds you start. First, you need to determine the type of vegetables you and your family enjoy, the climatic conditions, the growing season’s length, and the plant’s size upon maturity. 

Some plants, like corn, take up a lot of space, and some tomato varieties produce large, sprawling plants that may spread aggressively. Growing plants such as beans and peas will require a little bit of finesse in terms of stalking to keep the plants off the ground and ensure they’re disease-free. 

If you have space limitations, it’s a good idea to consider companion planting. Select vegetables that pair well together to ensure they have optimum growing conditions. This may also improve the plants’ flavor. Tomatoes pair well with basil, carrots, cucumbers, squash, and other herbs. Introduce a three-way companion partnership for optimal results.

Vegetable Garden Design Tips

Once you have made all the necessary preparations to start your vegetable garden, these tips will guarantee an ample harvest no matter the design that you go with.

• Please consult your local cooperative extension office on the best vegetables to grow in your area and their planting schedules, or seek the advice of experienced gardeners. 
• Ensure your plants aren’t overcrowded. They may seem small as seedlings, but if you plant vegetables too close together as they age, they may be close to each other, which may increase the risk of spreading diseases and depleted nutrients, hence decreasing the yield.
• Good soil is crucial for a good harvest. Start the garden with loose soil that has been replenished with organic matter. 
• Rotate your crops each year to reduce the risk of diseases spreading and nutrient depletion. 
• Mulch the garden to preserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 
• Selecting pest-resistant varieties and biological pest control methods, such as using ladybird insects, could help reduce the risk of pests and diseases.

Frequently Asked Questions 

What vegetables shouldn’t be planted next to each other?

While companion planting may be beneficial, planting some vegetables next to each other may have adverse effects. Incompatible vegetables may attract pests and diseases, stunt growth, and negatively impact the taste and flavor of some vegetables.

Here are some vegetables you should never combine: corn or cabbages next to potatoes, eggplants or cucumbers with potatoes, and peppers next to cabbages.

Which side should I plant my garden rows, east to west or north to south?

To increase sunlight exposure, plant garden rows from north to south.

What is the most efficient vegetable garden design?

The square-foot garden is the most efficient vegetable garden design for small spaces. Depending on the space you have, you can scale the garden to size or make several gardens. 

As the long, hot summer days come to an end and we start preparing for the cooler weather, it’s now time to begin thinking about the fall gardening season. And what better way to kickstart your kitchen garden than with some late summer herbs?!

Herb gardens are a low-effort project that provides a supply of herbs that will enhance the flavor of your homemade recipes. They also don’t take up too much space, making growing them easy.

Whether you have an extensive kitchen garden in your backyard or a small one on your apartment’s balcony, the following plants are some of the best herbs to grow in late summer, indoors or outdoors.

Take a look!

1. Basil

Basil is a staple in any fall garden. Its distinctive flavor and scent make it a favorite herb among many cooks and one of the delights of the summer season.

Basil loves hot weather, with six to eight hours of sun being perfect for the herb. However, regular watering is a must since it’s still the hottest time of the year!

Pick the herb’s leaves regularly to encourage the plant’s growth throughout summer. If you want to store fresh-cut basil, put about an inch of water in a jar, place the stems, then loosely cover with a plastic bag. Basil is an excellent companion for tomatoes since it repels pests and improves their flavor.

2. Chives

Chives are versatile, low-maintenance, high-yield plants with a mild onion or garlic flavor—they’re actually a member of the onion family. They love full sun but will still grow anywhere you plant them. Mature plants grow 8 – 12 inches.

Chives are a natural deterrent to pests, including carrot rust flies, Japanese beetles, and aphids. Their vibrant purple flowers also attract pollinators.

3. Cilantro

Cilantro is the perfect herb for cool weather. It prefers moist soil and partial shade. A fully mature plant takes around 50 days to grow and reaches a height of 6 to 10 inches. Cilantro has fan-shaped leaves that closely resemble parsley.

This herb is an excellent companion plant for basil and will do best in a container—both basil and cilantro mature around the same time and appreciate moist soil.

4. Mint

Mint is a hardy, easy-to-grow herb whose fragrant leaves add a fruity, aromatic taste to many cuisines. It grows quite tall, reaching 1 – 2 feet tall, needs adequate watering and regular feeding, and does well in partial shade. Picking it back every week or two will also encourage new growth.

Harvest your mint as soon as it appears since younger leaves tend to have more flavor than mature ones. Mint can grow fast and wild like a weed, so we recommend growing it in a pot if you don’t want it taking over your garden.

5. Oregano

Oregano has an earthy and bitter taste and will grow anywhere from six inches all the way up to two feet in height. The Greek’s herb green-gray leaves are a perfect accent to any sauce, and they’re widely used as a topping for homemade pizzas.

Since oregano is a perennial herb, you only need to plant it once, and it’ll keep coming back. It prefers dry conditions and thrives in full to partial sun. Oregano also performs well as a pest deterrent.

6. Parsley

Parsley comes in two varieties: curly and flat-leaf. Both have a slightly bitter taste with a strong grassy flavor and are regarded as some of the most popular and often used scented herbs worldwide. Parsley takes a while to mature, so it would be best to sow the seeds early.

The herb prefers full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. Avoid planting parsley near carrot crops since the two can cross-pollinate, ruining your carrots. Also, keep your herbs away from lettuce since they can cause the lettuce to bolt prematurely.

The flat-leaf variety is more popular since it can tolerate sunshine and rain.

7. Thyme

Thyme is a versatile, hardy herb with a woody flavor. It is used in baked goods, fresh dishes, and numerous cuisines. Mature plants grow between 12 and 15 inches tall, and the herb needs at least 6 to 8 hours of sun daily.

Thyme is drought-tolerant, making it one of the best late-summer herbs for your kitchen garden.

Its gorgeous small pink flowers add a burst of color to the garden and attract bees, which help pollinate the area. Plant it near cabbages and strawberries since it also helps repel cabbage worms and flea beetles.

8. Rosemary

Rosemary is an easy-to-grow late summer herb popularly known for its fragrant, piney scent and use in cooking recipes and perfumes. Fully mature rosemary grows between 24 and 36 inches tall and prefers full sunlight and cooler temperatures.

When planted outside, rosemary will grow to the size of a small herb but won’t survive the freezing winter temperatures. We recommend bringing potted plants indoors during this time. This herb is a great companion for cold-weathered veggies like cabbage and cauliflower since it repels pests that attack them.

Avoid planting rosemary near pumpkins or squashes. These plants aren’t good companions because they compete for soil nutrients and space.

Keep your kitchen stocked with fresh flavors by growing these easy-to-maintain herbs.

Basil and mint thrive in warm weather, while oregano and thyme add depth to your dishes.

Parsley and cilantro bring freshness, and chives offer a mild onion-like taste.

Rosemary provides a fragrant, hardy option, making these herbs perfect for a productive late-summer garden!

Fall vegetable gardens have recently become common in many households, and for good reasons. These gardens contribute to sustainability, and owners also have the advantage of growing their own food and saving money on groceries. 

No matter the size you are working with, you can always find a garden design to suit your needs—no space is too small! 

Of course, you’ll have to consider other requirements, like the amount of light the garden receives and the soil type, for your plants to grow healthy. Having a clear idea of how you want your garden to look is the first step towards successful fall vegetable gardening. 

You can explore different designs, ranging from small spaces and balconies to ideal designs for large spaces. Here are 16 vegetable garden ideas for a bountiful harvest this fall. 

Take a look!

1. Try Raised Garden Beds

@joegardener

Raised garden beds are becoming a trend in home gardening due to their versatility and ease of use compared to traditional gardens.

They’re practically one of the best gardening ideas for your fall vegetables, be it Brussels sprouts, mustard, spinach, kale, arugula, broccoli, cauliflower, chard, bok choi, radishes, carrots, peas, beets—you name it!

2. Grow a Potager Garden 

@reshgala

Native to France, a potager garden has a beautiful design, ensures that your garden is tidy, and limits the growth of weeds and pest infestation. In this type of garden, gravel is added between garden beds, such as raised garden beds. 

This design is aesthetically pleasing and functional, making it easy to move between beds and tend to plants. The garden has been created with several raised beds fitted with trellises to support climbers.

3. Create a Tiered Garden

@chanticleergarden

Sometimes, the terrain isn’t favorable for growing a fall vegetable garden, especially if the area is sloping. Instead of contending with the slope, why not make a feature of it and create a multi-tier garden? 

You can build multi-level planters using a step-like method or amending the slope to create multiple tiers by trenching. Here, several stick planters have been used to create the garden, using the slope well and blending in seamlessly with the surroundings. 

4. Use Planters 

@morrisnursery

When growing a garden, the ground sometimes just won’t do. This is especially true in areas with poor terrain, such as rocky areas or areas with poor soil. In such a case, using planters can be an effective way to grow your garden. 

Planters also make ideal gardens when the ground is too cold, for example, during winter. This garden design used a combination of planters and raised garden beds to maximize the small space. 

5. Incorporate it Into Your Landscape 

@landscapesofdevoreassociates

Many people consider a garden a separate section that should be clearly defined and away from the other outdoor spaces. But the truth is that you can incorporate a garden into your landscape design to make your outdoor space beautiful and productive. 

This garden design used several plants as the base and was incorporated into the property’s landscape. Thus, the garden is both a functional and decorative feature of the space. 

6. Light It Up 

@thekiwihome

Of course, the primary aim of growing a garden is to enjoy the produce after a given period, but this doesn’t mean the design should be bland. Adding some lights can make the area functional both day and night. 

Several hanging lights have been incorporated into this design, elevating the garden to a 24/7 chill-out spot. The curly kale, swiss chard, and snow peas add visual interest during the day, while the lights liven them up once darkness sets in. 

7. Section It 

@sandiegoseedcompany

If you want to grow several plants that don’t complement each other, the best way is to section your garden. This way, you can grow each group of plants in a particular section without worrying about how the plants may affect each other. 

Several raised beds have been used to create sectioned gardens in this garden design, each growing one plant variety. The incorporation of flowers improves the area’s visual appeal. 

8. Add a Trellis

@iva.grasa.ig

Your climbers will need a support structure to spread effectively and produce to their potential, ensuring a bountiful harvest. Adding a trellis to your garden is the best way to offer the much-needed support for your plants. 

Here, this garden bed has been fitted with a trellis that provides sufficient support for the tomatoes. Ensure the trellis is fitted well so it doesn’t collapse due to the weight of the plants.

9. Add Visual Interest with Leafy Greens

@joegardener

Leafy greens are versatile; they can be cooked as vegetables, used as salad ingredients, or used to add visual interest to your outdoor space. Their deep green colors can also be a decorative element in your garden. 

Here, garden beds boast kales and broccoli in varying tones of green, with red mustard adding an aesthetic element to a simple garden design. 

10. Divide and Conquer 

@national_garden_bureau

Space can be a significant limitation when gardening; sometimes, there isn’t enough space to grow all your plants. However, dividing your garden into small sections can help ensure you plant all the kales and Brussel sprouts you want! 

In this garden idea, the raised garden bed has been divided into distinct sections, each growing a different plant. Be careful not to crowd the sections with too many plants, which can harm the entire ecosystem. 

11. Mix and Match 

@botanical_interests

One of the oldest and most effective gardening practices is growing complementary plants. These plants complement each other by improving the flavor, deterring pests, or reducing competition for resources. 

Here, several vegetables with complementary characteristics have been added to the garden to create the perfect fall vegetable garden.

12. Use a Greenhouse 

@mamaisinthegarden

To keep your vegetables free from pests during the fall season, consider the above DIY “greenhouse” design.

You only need pipes for the hoop houses, old banister rails for reinforcement, a mesh to cover your plants, and large binder clips to keep the mesh in place. With such a design, you can say goodbye to those pesky cabbage worms!

13. Making It Your Patio Feature

@deannacat3

Having an outdoor sitting area is the perfect way to relax and enjoy a cool breeze, and while at it, why not add a vegetable garden to spruce up the space? Most people prefer flower gardens due to their decorative ability, but a vegetable garden can serve as both decor and a haven for fresh produce. 

Several raised beds with various vegetables surround this outdoor patio area. The plants add visual interest and make the space feel lively. You can even add flowers to some of the beds to liven up the space. 

14. Fence It 

@joegardener

Constructing a fence around your vegetable garden can instantly improve its appearance, keep away critters and animals, and create a clearly defined area for your garden. 

This garden, consisting of several raised garden beds, has all been fenced to create the ideal garden. Notice the ample space between beds to make it easy to move around the garden and tend to the veggies.

15. In-Ground Beds 

@painchaud2020

Planting vegetables straight in the ground is the easiest way to start a vegetable garden. However, many people shy away from this option, fearing that the soil may not have enough nutrients. If you amend the soil well or have nutrient-rich soil, in-ground gardening is the way to go. 

These healthy carrots have been uprooted from an in-ground bed, showing the advantages one can reap, especially with root tubers and vegetables.

16. Incorporate an Irrigation System

@blu_canoe_design

One of the most essential plant care routines when growing vegetables is watering them. Forgetting to water your plants for even a day could have detrimental consequences, so why not install an irrigation system to save yourself the hassle of watering them now and then? 

In this concrete raised garden bed design, a drip irrigation system has been installed to ensure plants for your fall salad delicacy have an endless water supply. 

As spring approaches, one of the ways to uplift your outdoor space is by bringing in some flowering plants.

As the cold winter months fade and warmer spring weather sets in, there are a variety of perennials and shrubs that you can use to rejuvenate your garden. 

The good thing about these plants is that you don’t need a lot of space to grow them.

With the right conditions, you’ll soon be enjoying the bright colors, environmental benefits, and the sometimes soft, sweet scents of these flowers.

We’ve compiled a list of ten beautiful flowers to spruce up your garden this March. 

Take a look!

1. Marigolds

Marigolds are annual plants that are known for their bright golden color, hence the name. There are different types of marigolds depending on their origin.

For example, African marigolds are slightly more prominent as compared to French marigolds. 

Other than their mesmerizing color, marigolds also make good companion plants since they can deter pests such as aphids and whiteflies.

Besides this, they’re also highly versatile and can be grown in outdoor gardens, container gardens, and even kitchen gardens since they can prevent pests from attacking your vegetables. 

If you are looking to grow marigolds, start the seeds indoors 4-6 weeks after the last frost. 

2. Pansy

Pansies are vibrant flowers known for their bright colors and intricate patterns. Commonly found in North America, these flowers can survive even in freezing temperatures (although I wouldn’t recommend it). 

What makes these flowers a great addition to your garden and the perfect choice for spring is their spectrum of hues, which are likely to uplift any garden.

Depending on the subspecies you grow, they come in a variety of sizes and shapes. 

One critical advantage of growing pansies is that they are easy to care for. All they need is basic care requirements such as water, the proper temperatures, and pruning to remove old flowers.

3. Daisy

Daisies are flowers of innate beauty with the ability to uplift any space with their charm. Daisies are native to Europe, where they first grew as an invasive species but have since been adopted in many gardens. 

In fact, daisies are the most common flowers in most flower gardens. There are different varieties of this flower, with the most common one being… wait for it…the common daisies with white petals and a yellow center. 

There are also other varieties, such as the African Daisy and the Gerbera Daisy. These flowers will not only add beauty to your garden but also be an ingredient in sandwiches, salads, and soups, especially the young red daisy flower. 

4. Petunia

Petunias are one of the most popular annuals, and they can transform any garden with their exciting colors. Not only are these flowers beautiful, but they are also tough and capable of surviving in harsh climates. 

Just like daisies and pansies, petunias come in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Continued plant science has seen the production of several hybrids of this flower. 

This flower thrives in hardiness zones 9 to 11, and they have various uses, from seasonal groundcovers to border plants.

Petunias bloom from spring to winter, but since they are annual plants, they get leggy by summer. Ensure you prune the plant for continued healthy growth. 

5. Snapdragon

Snapdragons are lovely flowers that thrive in sunny borders. They produce tall, bright flowers that come in a variety of colors that will make any garden lively.

Some of the most common colors for this plant include pink, white, yellow, orange, and red. 

While they will likely be the highlight of your garden in spring, these flowers slow down and stop blooming in the scorching summer heat.

Snapdragons grow to about 36 inches tall and thrive in hardiness zones 7 through 10. 

Although they have minimal care requirements, snapdragons will need fertilizing at least once a month.

6. Hardy Hibiscus

The hardy hibiscus is one of the most famous tropical flowers.

While the tropical variety of this plant can easily get damaged by extreme weather conditions such as frost and excessive heat, the hardy hibiscus is a much more tolerant variety. 

With its vibrant colors and giant blossoms, the hardy hibiscus can be a true showstopper in your garden.

This five-petaled flower has pointed buds that appear in deep red, creating an exciting contrast with the aging pale-toned hibiscus. 

7. Aster

The star-shaped flowers of asters are the kings of perennials, and they bloom from spring to fall. Once they’ve bloomed, the flowers are likely to last until the first frost. 

Asters have a purple and lush lavender color, but some varieties can be either white or pink.

These lovely flowers make a good choice for many gardens since they are likely to attract pollinators such as butterflies and bees. 

The average growth height for asters is 6 feet; however, there exist compacted varieties that can grow in window boxes and containers. 

8. Touch Me Not

These beautiful blue flowers with a glow-like color will adorn your garden long after spring. Since they are deer-resistant, they are unlikely to be damaged soon.

Although the most common color is blue, there are other varieties, such as white and purple. 

Most people grow touch-me-nots in late fall to ensure that by early summer, they have bloomed, but they are definitely a flower that you should be looking to grow this March. 

9. Catmint

Catmint is not only beautiful and resilient but can also bring a sweet aroma to your garden. It’s an excellent choice for a beautiful, low-maintenance plant.

Just like the Touch-me-not, the unique scent produced by the plant deters deers, thus minimizing damage from animals. 

Generally, catmint will thrive in any soil type as long as it’s well-draining.

Depending on the variety that you grow, the plant’s foliage will range from bright green to silver gray, while the flowers may either be purple, blue, white, or pink. 

This plant can thrive in a variety of hardiness zones from zone 5 through 9.

10. Lavender

Lavender is one of the most versatile flowers in terms of uses. Not only does it serve as a beautiful garden decoration, but it also has some culinary benefits. 

With its silver-green foliage and purple spike-like flowers, this perennial is a stunning addition to borders and is also ideal for creating informal hedges.

The flower can also make an excellent floral arrangement in sachets and potpourri. 

There are different types of lavenders, such as French lavender, Lavandin, and Spanish lavender, but the most common variety is English Lavender. 

Roses never fail to adorn our gardens. These beautiful flowers have minimal care requirements; a moist, well-drained medium and a sunny spot are all you need, and pruning is very beneficial to them.

Pruning your roses helps direct their energy, encouraging better flowering, preventing diseases, and improving the overall health of your roses.

There are different pruning strategies for the numerous varieties of cultivars. Still, they all have the same goal: to improve the internal airflow in your plant for better flower yield and quality and to boost overall plant health. It also helps you achieve the desired shape for your rose bush garden!

Roses’ prickly limbs might make pruning seem intimidating, but our step-by-step guide is here to prove otherwise. So, remember these tips when pruning your roses to help you achieve the best results for your beloved flowers!

When to Prune Roses

Prune your roses at least once a year. Wait until early summer to prune once-blooming rose varieties right after they have bloomed.

You can shape them up further in late summer, but after that, pruning healthy canes (stems) will reduce the number of blooms you’ll receive the following year.

Pruning other rose cultivars in later winter or spring is best, just after the last frost date. As such, you must be updated with your local weather forecast since the last frost date might vary yearly.

The timing shouldn’t worry you much, but proper timing will help avoid injury to your roses, and you won’t have to deal with the headache of constantly pruning out new cold damage.

How Much to Prune Back Roses

You can use a few pruning methods for your roses, depending on the type of roses you have and what you want to get out of them.

Lightly prune newly planted roses during their first year to enable them to direct more energy on developing strong roots rather than growing leaves and stems.

You can try out the following three methods for older, healthy roses.

Light pruning will remove less than a third of your rose plant. You can be selective about your cuts if your roses have an excellent natural shape, good blooms, and minimal diseases.

Moderate pruning involves cutting your plant 18 – 24 inches high with 5 – 12 stems from the base. This is ideal when you’re trying to improve the branching structure of your plants, which encourages new growth and healthier flowering.

Severe pruning will take your roses 6 – 10 inches high and 3 – 5 stems. It’s perfect for long-stemmed flowers like the Grandiflora rose varieties or to rejuvenate older plants that aren’t performing well.

Keep in mind that some rose cultivars may bloom poorly after being subjected to severe pruning. Instead, they’ll direct more energy on regrowing canes that may not bloom until the following year, even if your plant repeatedly blooms all season.

The only exception is climbing roses. You can drastically reduce the size of overgrown roses by discarding excess stems at the plant’s base, but leave at least 3 – 5 stems and don’t cut them shorter than five feet.

Requirements

• Gardening gloves or long gauntlets
• Pruning shears
• Rake 
• Dustpan

Step-by-Step Guide for Pruning Roses

The standard rule for pruning roses is removing at least a third of the plant yearly. This helps your rose plant regrow during the active season while remaining healthy and balanced.

Pruning might seem tedious: cutting back climbing roses, giving ground cover roses a light trim, and reducing your roses’ size by a third, but your plant will have a clean and straightforward structure that eventually encourages further re-growth.

1. Remove Dead and Non-Productive Parts

The first step involves doing away with any yellowed leaves, blackened and shriveled branches, and deadheading roses; if it’s dying, dead, or diseased, it should be gone entirely!

Always put safety first, so ensure you have some safety glasses, steel-toed boots, and gardening gloves at hand. The same applies to your plants; use clean, sterilized pruning shears. 

2. Prune the Branches

Whenever you’re pruning your roses, always prune above outward-facing buds, no matter which method you use. This helps to direct your roses’ growth externally for a glamorous and more open floral display.

Make all your final cuts at 45°, pointing away from the buds to ensure debris and water don’t pool inside buds and cause disease or rot but instead run off the plant. Always use clean, sterilized tools to avoid the spread of diseases to other plants.

3. Remove Crossed Branches

This step involves clipping away any canes crossing and rubbing or those that have become leggy and are now growing inwards.

These small branches drain your plant’s energy, which would be better used to create more robust branches and flowers during spring and summer.

4. Shape the Plants

Now, take a moment to decide on the shape you want your rose bush to have, then adjust the overall width and height accordingly. 

Consider a rounded dome for your plant’s top to encourage flowering from top to bottom.

5. Finish Up

Tidy up by removing suckers from the base of grafted roses: suckers drain your plant’s energy. Use your pruning shears for more precision.

Clean up all the dead leaves, cuttings, and other debris, ensuring you throw them away. Composting this waste poses a significant risk of spreading diseases to other healthy plants, so avoid it at all costs.

What to Avoid When Pruning Roses

Incorrect timing is usually associated with most rose-pruning mistakes. If you plan on pruning your roses in spring, don’t prune your plants too early after they’ve come out of dormancy.

Frost-bite damages your roses, and they might not produce any flowers that year. Ensure the last frost date has passed because new growth will encourage fresh, delicate foliage that you can nip in a frost.

Consequently, pruning too late in the season, especially in cooler climates, is just as bad; the new growth won’t have enough time to mature before the first winter frost.

So, if you’re expecting cold winters within your area, don’t prune your roses in the fall. You will end up confusing your plant, and it’ll begin producing new growth susceptible to winter.

Some roses don’t need annual pruning, particularly wild roses, e.g., rugosas. You only need to remove the dead branches from the shrub’s underside every few years.

Final Remarks

Pruning is essential for promoting air circulation in your rose plants and their overall health. If you fail to prune your roses, they will eventually become too bushy and susceptible to pests and diseases.

Your roses will also become unsightly or lop-sided when the shrub has dead spots and won’t be as robust and showy. 

However, there are roses you don’t need to prune at all, and they’ll thrive when you actually neglect them, e.g., wild roses like Rosa rugosa and multi-flora.

In all, pruning is worth all the effort, and the goal is to create a healthy, balanced plant that will reward you with stunning blooms each year. 

Happy pruning!

One of my favorite gardening hacks is using kitchen scraps to help my plants grow healthy and robust. Rice water is atop this list due to its versatility. It can be used as a fertilizer, pesticide, or just like regular water.

Several nutrients in this water will tremendously benefit your plants if sprayed on the leaves or poured on the soil.

What makes rice water an even preferable remedy is that it’s safe to use for indoor plants. But, there are some factors you need to consider when using this type of water, such as how frequently you use it and its drawbacks.

In this article, we’ll explore everything you need to know when using rice water, so stick around to find out!

Is Rice Water Safe For Plants?

Yes, this water is completely safe to use in your plants. Rice grains are rich in iron, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and even phosphorus. These minerals wash away when you rinse the grains and are thus contained in the rice water.

The macronutrients in the water play a key role in proper plant growth, and if you use the water just right, you won’t have to fertilize your plants as often.

Since micronutrients such as copper, zinc, and boron are more concentrated in rice than in tap water, using rice water adds these minerals to your plants.

Another benefit of using this water is the starch that the plants will absorb and store and later use when they need more energy. Just like humans, plants use carbohydrates to replenish energy they have lost or used up throughout the day.

Generally, plants produce carbohydrates through photosynthesis, but in cases where they don’t produce enough starch from photosynthesis, rice water will help. This makes this type of water extremely useful for houseplants.

Additionally, the presence of more sugars in the soil promotes the activity of healthy bacteria. As a result, there’s increased decomposition of organic matter, making more nutrients available to your plants.

Benefits of Using Rice Water For Plants

There are different water types you can use for your plants, such as distilled water, rainwater, or even tap water.

To give your plants a little bit of a boost, you can use kitchen byproducts such as rice or potato water, and if you have a fish tank, you can also use fish tank water.  

There are several benefits of using rice water, such as:

• It’s an environmentally friendly and organic fertilizer.

• Reduces the money spent on synthetic fertilizers.

• Reduces the risk of burn on plant roots that’s caused by chemicals and inadequate application.

• Promotes the recycling of kitchen byproducts.

• You can make it yourself.

• Encourage the development of bacteria such as mycorrhizae and lactobacilli, which are beneficial to the soil.

• It has multiple application methods (top or bottom watering, spraying).

• It can help control or minimize pest infestation without using any harmful chemicals.

• Enhances fruiting and crop production.

• Boosts growth in plants since it’s a source of nutrients.

Drawbacks of Using Rice Water

Even though there are several benefits of using the liquid left after washing rice, there are also several problems with it.

Here are some drawbacks of using rice water to help you determine whether it’s suitable for your plants:

• Adding carbohydrates to the soil can make the soil harder.

• Even though rice has several nutrients, they aren’t enough, and the plants have to be supplemented.

• The sugars in rice water can attract insects such as ants and spiders to feed on them.

• Rice water can also ferment after a short period, exuding an unpleasant smell that can be unsettling. 

• While rice water leads to the development of healthy bacteria, it can also cause the development of unhealthy bacteria, which will harm your plants.

• Not all plants can absorb carbohydrates through their roots.

• The process of making and storing rice may be tiresome for some gardeners.

How To Make Rice Water

There are several ways to make rice water, such as by soaking the grains in water or by boiling them. The boiling process releases more minerals, so making rice water through this method will result in generally more nutritious water.

Here is the complete guide to making rice water through both methods, as well as how to make fermented rice water so you can choose the type of water you want.

Pro tip: If the rice water is too thick, then you can add more water to dilute it.

Making Rice Water by Soaking 

Step 1: First, you have to rinse the rice for 2-3 minutes to remove any particles, chemicals, and impurities that you don’t want to give your plants.

Step 2: Put the rice in a bowl and add some water. Use the ratio 1:4 or 1:6 in favor of water.

Step 3: Let the rice soak for about 45 minutes.

Step 4: Using a strainer, separate the grains from the water.

Step 5: Pour the water into a spray bottle and use it to moisturize your plants

Making Rice Water from Boiling

Step 1: In this method, you have to use a cooking pot because using a rice cooker won’t yield the desired results. Before boiling the rice, you have to rinse it thoroughly to remove any harmful compounds.

Step 2: Put the rice in a pot and add some water. Use the ratio of 1:4 or 1:6 in favor of the water so you can have more leftover liquid.

Step 3: Cook the rice for 45 minutes. 

Step 4: Use a strainer to separate the rice and water and let it cool down.

Step 5: Once the water has cooled down, pour it into a spray bottle and use it to spray your plants.

Making Fermented Rice Water

Step 1: Cook the rice, then place some in a glass vessel and pour in some clean water. If your water has too much chlorine, then use distilled water.

Step 2: Fermenting needs air, so cover the liquid with a kitchen towel to allow air to pass through.

Step 3: Place the vessel in a dark spot and let it sit for 7-14 days so that the liquid can ferment.

Pro tip: If you’ve already made rice water, you can just use it to make fermented rice water without using cooked rice. You just need to add one spoonful of sugar and four spoons of milk, then cover the container with a kitchen towel. Put the container in a dark spot, and you should have fermented rice water in 3-4 days.

How To Use Rice Water For Plants 

As previously mentioned, rice water has several uses as a fertilizer, pesticide, watering, and spraying plants. In the following section, we’ll discuss the different uses of rice water.

But first, here are some tips for irrigating your plants with rice water.

Tip 1: Always ensure the rice water is at room temperature so that the beneficial bacteria can survive.

Tip 2: Using too much water can lead to root rot, so don’t water your plants excessively with this water.

Tip 3: Avoid watering your plants at midday since the rate of moisture evaporation during this time is high. You should also avoid watering your plants at night since the plants can get waterlogged, which increases the risks of fungal infections.

The best time to water your plants is in the early morning or late afternoon when the temperatures are moderate, and hence, the plant can absorb water when it’s most active.

Bottom Watering 

This type of watering is mostly used for houseplants since they are grown in containers, baskets, or pots. You can also use bottom catering for your outdoor plants if you grow them in planters.

Step 1: Place your potted plant in a long tray. Ensure the pot or container has drainage holes in it, or this method won’t be effective. 

Step 2: Fill the tray with rice water such that it covers about an inch of the planter.

Step 3: Let the plant rest in the tray for about 10-20 minutes so that it can absorb the water. After this time has passed, check the soil to see if it’s moist. If not, let the plant sit for a bit longer. 

Step 4: Once the soil is moist, take out the plant and let the excess moisture drain out, then put it back in its spot.

Top Watering

This method is effective for garden plants as well as potted plants. Top watering is easy to do since you don’t have to move your plants to irrigate them. 

All you have to do is pour water at the base of the soil. Avoid wetting the leaves since this will increase the risk of fungal infections.

If you decide to use the top watering method for your potted plants, irrigate them until water starts dripping out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the container.

Misting 

Spraying water on the leaves of your plant is a method that has been used to increase a plant’s humidity for years. Using rice water for this process will also provide the plant with more nutrients.

If you are growing succulents, then misting them is better than watering in the traditional way. Use a spray bottle to mist the leaves a couple of times (don’t forget to mist the undersides). Spray the soil once or twice to ensure enough nutrients are absorbed by the plant.

You can also use rice water to mist the plants that thrive in high-humidity levels, but you’ll have to spray them more frequently compared to succulents, and don’t forget to water them once the topsoil dries out.

Using Fermented Rice Water as a Pesticide

The key benefit of fermented rice water is that it can help you control and prevent infestation of aphids, fruit flies, and flea beetles.

All you need to do is dilute the fermented rice water to half-strength, put it in a spray bottle, and spray your plants. 

Rice Water as a Fertilizer

Even though rice can’t be used as a primary fertilizer since it contains small amounts of NPK, applying rice water to your plants will boost the greenery and the flowers. 

When using rice water as a fertilizer supplement, water the plants twice a week. However, don’t do the watering often, as the starch in the water may harden the soil.

How Often Should You Use Rice Water

Using rice water is a great way to recycle kitchen byproducts; just don’t overuse it.

Irrigate the plants with rice water after every 2-3 weeks to boost their growth and replenish them with nutrients. 

Using this type of water frequently can harden the soil, which will make it difficult for your plants to absorb water. Use it every once in a while or dilute it in regular water.  

Rainwater has more nutrients than tap water, so it can serve as a great alternative to rice water, and you can use the two alternatingly based on your plant’s needs.

How To Store Rice Water For Plants

Rice water should be stored in a jar or a vessel and covered with a lid. Keep the water in a dry location at room temperature.

Once you have made the water, you can use it right away or keep it for the next 4-5 days. However, over time, the water will ferment and become more potent, so ensure to dilute it with more water before using it.

Commonly Asked Questions

Now that we’ve covered all the pros and cons of using rice water for your plants. It’s time to examine common questions that people have in relation to this topic.

Which plants do rice water benefit?

Rice water can be used for all plants; it contains nutrients that many plants can benefit from, such as succulents, tropical plants, aroids, orchids, flowers, vegetables, etc.

The water is more suitable for plants that thrive in rich substrates, but all plants can benefit from getting a monthly rice water wash.  

What are the alternatives to rice water?

If you don’t have access to rice water, you can try potato or coconut water. Other great alternatives include nettle or dandelion tea, compost or manure, green tea fertilizer, etc.

Kitchen byproducts can be utilized in different ways. You can make orange or banana peel fertilizer, use fish tank water, or make bone meal so you don’t have to throw away bones. You can also make fertilizers out of coffee grounds.

The options are endless; scraps from your kitchen may be what your plants need to flourish! 

Summing Up

Watering is a crucial step in any plant’s care guide, and using rice water may be just the right way to give your plants an extra boost. In this article, we’ve covered the pros and cons of using rice water to help you decide on its usefulness.

There are different ways to make rice water, so use the method that works for you, or that will be most beneficial to your plants.

In the spirit of recycling and sustainability, it’s important we make the most of all the resources that we have, so don’t let your kitchen byproducts go to waste!

There are so many things you can decorate beautifully using small yellow flowers, including borders, rock gardens, and flower beds. Unfortunately, they don’t have the same magical effect on lawns.

Sometimes, you might see some black-eyed Susans or dandelions growing all over your grass, and the first thing that comes to your mind is to eliminate them and restore your lawn to its former glory.

Today, we’re going to examine some common weeds that have tiny yellow flowers, show what they can do to your yard, and provide some helpful tips for getting rid of them.

Let’s get into it!

Canada Goldenrod

Identification: If you happen to meet the Canada goldenrod, you’ll notice that its flowers don’t look like real flowers at all. Rather, they resemble pyramidal stems covered in millions of hairy blossoms. The plant’s leaves are deep green, toothed, and lanceolate and narrow towards the base. Although the plant can reach heights up to 6 feet, it typically stops growing once it reaches 2 – 4 feet.

Effect: The Canada goldenrod has light seeds that are easily transferred by the wind, and they can quickly germinate. The weed competes with your grasses and other floral cultivars, suffocating and overcrowding them. Its size will also easily taint your lawn!

Restraint: Use weed killers with triclopyr to completely eliminate any young Canada goldenrod you notice on your grass. However, it’s good to note that this herbicide can cause damage to regular grass species in Florida or other warm places, so overseed after applying it.

Butterweed

Identification: Honestly, the buttery yellow petals on the butterweed and their deeper orange or yellow discs are quite good-looking. The plant’s leaves have smooth edges while it’s still young, but the foliage becomes more lobed as it matures. It can reach a height of around 3 feet and is severely toxic to cattle and horses, so its ingestion can be fatal.

Effect: The butterweed is native to North America, but it can also spread aggressively and overcome other plants. The plant is also toxic to humans and can cause digestive problems for your pets, so eliminating it from your lawn is the best option.

Restraint: 2,4-D is the best way to control this plant while the weed is in the flowering phase, even though you need to apply it more than once.

Black Medic

Identification: The black medic belongs to the legume family and has trifoliate oval foliage and globe-shaped flower heads, and it holds a close resemblance to clover. It’s usually a short-lived or annual perennial and grows 1 – 2 feet tall.

Effect: This plant grows stronger than lawn grass as a result of its deep taproot. It can also prevent grass seeds’ germination and lead to ugly-looking patches since it’s low-growing. The black medic weed grows aggressively and is non-native.

Restraint: As mentioned earlier, the black medic have deep taproots, so they’re challenging to pull out. As such, use post-emergent herbicides containing fluroxypyr, MCPP, and dicamba to suppress their growth. Prevention is better than cure, so keep your lawn fertilized and well-watered and mow it regularly, and you won’t have to worry about the black medic as such.

Black-Eyed Susan

Identification: Black-eyed Susan is a smaller version of the sunflower, and it actually looks great when grown in flower beds. It’s usually 1 – 3 feet tall, even though some types can reach heights of up to 4 – 6 feet! The plant produces yellow flowers with black disks at the center, which are surrounded by narrow, ovate or lanceolate leaves.

Effect: Even though the black-eyed susan isn’t regarded as an invasive species, it grows aggressively and can easily take over your yard. Also, it’ll get tall and disrupt all the work you’ve put into your beautiful lawn.

Restraint: Remove the flower heads before they produce seeds to control the spread of this plant naturally. This way, they won’t be able to propagate. Also, remove the whole plant together with all the rhizomes since even the most minor bits can produce new plants.

Bird’s Foot Trefoil

Identification: Tiny yellow flowers of this plant can adorn various places, but they don’t look great on lawns at all. The bird’s foot trefoil has oblanceolate leaves that possess smooth edges, and the whole low-growing plant reaches a height of 1 – 2 feet.

Effect: The plant spreads by stolons and rhizomes and can self-seed. The bird’s foot trefoil can choke out grass and other plants and is invasive in many parts of North America, which is why you should eliminate it from your lawn.

Restraint: The bird’s foot trefoil flourishes in infertile and drought-prone soils, so caring for your lawn correctly in terms of irrigation, fertilization, and mowing can prevent it. Additionally, your grass will be able to grow aggressively and hinder the weeds from growing. If this doesn’t solve your problem, you can apply some weed killers containing 2,4-D, MCPP, and dicamba to get rid of it.

Common St. John’s-Wort

Identification: The flowers of St. John’s-wort resemble real yellow stars, especially when you realize its myriad stamens look like light rays. Smooth, narrow, and oblong leaves adorn the whole plant. It has a width of 3 – 6 feet and can reach a height of 6 feet.

Effect: This cultivar spreads by seeds and rhizomes, producing up to 34,000 seeds yearly. As such, it’s able to invade a large section of land and harm many animals, causing dead tissue, skin lesions, and other health-related issues.

Restraint: Maintaining a healthy lawn is the best way to prevent this weed’s growth because competition hinders the growth of St. John’s-wort seedlings. You can achieve this by mowing, watering, and fertilizing your grasses regularly. You can also pull the plants out if there are only a couple of them. Otherwise, use herbicides with metsulfuron or 2,4-D.

Common Ragwort

Identification: Ragwort is a member of the daisy family. That’s why it has an attractive look. The plant has short stems supporting pinnate, lobed leaves, and numerous yellow flowers. The common ragwort is also called stinking willie, so that should probably give you a good idea why most people want to eliminate it. The plant can reach heights of at least 18 – 30 inches.

Effect: The common ragwort is poisonous and can harm pigs, chickens, horses, cattle, etc. The plant can spread rapidly all over your yard because it produces thousands of seeds in 4 – 6 weeks. It can quickly become invasive, so it would be best to do away with it as quickly as you can.

Restraint: Mow the weed before it flowers to stop it from seeding and prevent it from spreading all over your lawn. If the plant is localized to one area, you can pull it from the ground, but you’ll have to take the whole root system out. Plowing is another excellent alternative, but you can always use herbicides with 2,4-D or MCPP if plowing isn’t an option for you.

Common Evening Primrose

Identification: The common evening primrose has lemon yellow, bell-shaped flowers, which have an exciting cycle. Its flowers are open from evening until morning and close once the heat re-emerges. The plant can grow up to 2 – 6 feet tall and has numerous lanceolate, narrow leaves all along the stem.

Effect: This primrose isn’t the typical day-to-day weed, but it still self-seeds and spreads like one. Mowing won’t help much when dealing with this weed since it can also multiply by rhizomes. The plant’s size will disrupt your beautiful lawn appearance, so either completely eliminate it or move it to a flower bed.

Restraint: The best way to get rid of the common evening primrose is to mow it before it flowers since it prevents it from self-seeding, and then pull it out of the ground. Ensure you remove the whole root system to prevent it from growing again. If the weed has covered large tracts of land, you can use some broadleaf herbicides to treat it.

Creeping Cinquefoil

Identification: The creeping cinquefoil has yellow heart-shaped petals that form its cup, and, to tell you the truth, they don’t look that bad at all! Nonetheless, its toothed and oblong, deep green leaves don’t really do well with lawns, so it’s always best to remove it when it emerges on your lawn. Fortunately, your grass can overcrowd it since it doesn’t grow taller than 6 inches, so there’s no need to worry even if you forget to get rid of it.

Effect: The creeping cinquefoil spreads runners, which root quickly and can invade your whole yard within no time. The plant is considered invasive and, given the chance, will suffocate the rest of your plants.

Restraint: To deter the development of creeping cinquefoil, ensure there are perfect conditions for grass growth through proper lawn care. This involves regular irrigation, mowing, fertilization, and aeration. Pulling this plant entirely out of the ground might be challenging since it has deep roots, but you can use herbicides containing dicamba, 2,4-D, etc.

Creeping Buttercup

Identification: The triangular or egg-like serrated leaves and the bright yellow cup-shaped flowers make it challenging to eliminate this weed from your lawn. The creeping buttercup reaches heights of 1.5 feet, but you can still see it among the blades of grass.

Effect: This plant is known for competing with lawns for nutrients, particularly potassium, and spreads by stolons and seeds. Therefore, you shouldn’t allow it to run rampant since it’ll tarnish your beautiful green lawn and put it at risk.

Restraint: Post-emergent weed killers with aminopyralid, MCPA, and 2,4-D are best for dealing with this type of weed.

Cypress Spurge

Identification: The cypress spurge can grow up to 6 – 12 inches in height and appear as a bushy ground cover. The plant has bright yellow cup-shaped flowers and linear light green leaves that aren’t that pleasant-looking, so you’ll have no guilt when you eradicate this weed.

Effect: The cypress spurge typically spreads by seeds, but it can multiply by rhizomes too. The weed contains latex, which can cause blindness and skin irritations, so it isn’t safe for humans and animals. The plant is an aggressive grower and will suffocate your native grasses and plants.

Restraint: Regular lawn care is an excellent way to deter the growth of cypress spurge since it flourishes in poor and dry soils. Pulling or digging it out is also another option, but ensure you remove every rhizome because it can grow from the root remnants. After you pull out the weed, apply a weed killer with picloram, 2,4-D and dicamba, or quinclorac to kill it completely.

Dandelion

Identification: Dandelions have lovely yellow flower heads and airy circles that beautify your lawn, so eradicating them isn’t really necessary. The plant grows to heights of 2 – 24 inches, so it’ll hardly ruin your grass; furthermore, you can harvest its spear-shaped serrated leaves and use them in your salads.

Effect: These plants spread by roots or seeds and can quickly invade your whole lawn. Dandelions grow in short clumps and present an unsightly display if you are keen on having a neat lawn.

Restraint: Luckily, there are some excellent herbicides for bermuda grass that won’t damage your lawn but will eradicate this broadleaf weed. It would be best to use a herbicide with compounds like fluroxypyr, 2,4-D, dicamba, etc.

Golden Clover

Identification: This plant is also called the large hop clover (or hop clover). The golden clover has smooth, elliptic, oblong, or rhombic foliage and a single oval or round flower. The plant typically reaches heights of 2 – 8 inches tall, so there’s a high probability it’ll be overcrowded by your lawn grass without you even noticing.

Effect: Even though this weed can attract pollinators, it spreads fast. It can rapidly increase its numbers since it’s non-native, and you’ll see small yellow heads sprouting in your entire lawn. Furthermore, the Invasive Plant Atlas of the U.S. considers this species as invasive.

Restraint: The golden clover is an annual, and maintaining healthy, dense, and vigorous grass is your best chance of inhibiting this weed from taking over your entire yard. Pulling it out is also an option if there are only a few plants on your lawn. If you want another alternative, weed killers containing triclopyr or glyphosate are also effective. However, it would be best to care for your lawn and weed it rather than use herbicides, especially when dealing with home landscapes.

Garden Loosestrife

Identification: The garden loosestrife has a pyramidal flower head that has numerous bright or golden yellow cup-shaped flowers. The most distinguishing feature of this plant is its egg-shaped or sometimes lanceolate leaves, which mostly come in threes. It has an overall bushy appearance and typically gets 2 – 3 feet tall.

Effect: The garden loosestrife spreads from rhizomes and seeds, even though the former is more critical. The plants expand deep into the ground, making it challenging to remove them; it always seems like they are coming back stronger than before! The plant is considered invasive and could overcome your other plants.

Restraint: Digging and pulling out these weeds are excellent options if there aren’t many of them on your lawn. The plant can sprout from the tiniest of root fragments, so ensure you remove the entire rhizome. Use herbicides with compounds like imazapyr, triclopyr, and glyphosate.

Grass-Leaved Goldenrod

Identification: The grass-leaved goldenrod has a disk-shaped flower head that contains numerous cylindrical flowers. Just like its name, its foliage resembles grass, even though its stem would pop out of your lawn even if there aren’t any golden blossoms. The plants can reach a height of 2 – 3.5 feet and can be bushy or narrow.

Effect: This plant primarily spreads through rhizomes, but the aggressive nature by which it does this makes it capable of taking over your garden in no time, especially when it gets a lot of sunlight. The root system and leaves of the plant also exude compounds that deter the growth of surrounding plants, so its spread will slowly deteriorate your lawn.

Restraint: Applying herbicides and proper lawn care are the best ways to eliminate this weed. Use products containing 2,4-D, dicamba, and triclopyr, and ensure you carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the package.

Lesser Celandine

Identification: The lesser celandine has lotus-like leaves and star-shaped yellow flowers that won’t necessarily taint your lawn’s appearance. Also, the plant typically grows about a foot tall, so it won’t stick out of your lawn as much.

Effect: This plant flourishes in nutrient-rich mediums and can tolerate shade. This makes it very challenging to eliminate it since maintaining a healthy lawn promotes its growth! It’s invasive, grows vigorously, and will outcompete other plants around it. It spreads by bulblets and tubers, disturbing the soil, or through seeds.

Restraint: Weeding this plant won’t be that effective since it spreads through seeds and tubers as well, unless you have the willingness and patience to sift through the soil while removing even the smallest root remnants. Rather, consider herbicides containing glyphosate and triclopyr to eradicate your problem completely.

Marsh Yellowcress

Identification: The lobed foliage of the marsh yellowcress is adorned by clusters of four-petal flowers. The plant typically grows to a height of 2 feet.

Effect: The marsh yellowcress is an annual that doesn’t live long, but it spreads via seeds and invades your local habitat during its short lifetime. Fortunately, this plant isn’t considered invasive, so you’ll have plenty of time to eliminate it before it takes over your yard.

Restraint: You can hand-pull individual plants if the infestation is negligible since the weed has shallow roots. You need only ensure you take out the entire root system. Use broad-spectrum broadleaf herbicides if the problem proves challenging.

Skeletonweed

Identification: This weed gets its name from its long and almost leafless stems with strap-shaped flowers. The skeletonweed is thin but can get to a height of 4 feet and branches out extensively, so it’ll taint your lawn appearance.

Effect: The skeletonweed can multiply through several means; be it root shoots, root fragments, or seeds; the list is endless! In the Southwest, a mature plant is considered invasive and can bear up to 20,000 seeds.

Restraint: Thoroughly weed away any root fragments you notice and maintain a healthy lawn to subdue skeletonweed infestation properly. If the skeletonweed is already mature, mow it before it flowers to prevent it from seeding. Use weed killers with picloram, 2,4-D, etc., for larger infestations.

Purslane

Identification: Purslane has small flower heads that have heart-shaped petals that protrude from the fleshy, huddled, oval leaves in the early morning. The plant only reaches a height of 3 inches but spreads about a foot and a half.

Effect: The scary bit about purslane is that one plant is capable of bearing 240,000 seeds that are functional for up to 40 years! Although the plant generally spreads through seeds, it can also spread through stem fragments. Purslane can damage your small ecosystem since it hinders the growth of native plants, leading to fewer pollinators and overall diversity.

Restraint: Preventing this weed from occurring in the first place is the best way to deal with it. Ensure you outsource your garden supplies from reputable dealers and use clean equipment to achieve this. If, by any chance, this weed becomes a problem, try covering it with dark plastic or mulching to prevent it from photosynthesizing. As mentioned earlier, herbicides aren’t really necessary when dealing with home lawns, but if you feel like you need to use them, opt for products containing MSMA, MCPP, dicamba, and 2,4-D.

Sow Thistle

Identification: The flowers of sow thistle are similar to those of dandelions, but the plant is much taller and can reach heights of 4 – 6 feet. The foliage is also different, with the plant having larger, much more toothed leaves that are a bit prickly to the touch.

Effect: Sow thistle typically relies on the wind to spread its seeds; fortunately, these seeds don’t stay viable for an extended period. The bad news is that the plant is invasive and will suffocate your other plants. Alaska even banned it!

Restraint: If you have no issue with using herbicides, you can eliminate sow thistle using products containing paraquat and glyphosate. If you are more of an environmentally friendly type of person, you can remove the plant manually, even though it’ll consume a lot of your time and energy, and you must eradicate the roots.

Spanish Broom

Identification: The bright yellow flowers and 6 – 10 feet of bushy growth of the Spanish broom give it a relatively pleasant-looking appeal. However, you’ll need to shape it if you plan on using it as part of your decor.

Effect: This plant is considered noxious, meaning it can cause gastrointestinal issues in animals and harm the environment. It spreads from seeds, and it’s an invasive species in North America. Given the chance, it can cause severe damage to your small ecosystem.

Restraint: You can pull and dig out the weeds if there are only a few of them. However, if the infestation is severe, it would be best to use weed killers containing glyphosate and triclopyr.

Wild Radish

Identification: The wild radish’s petals come in groups of four and have a slightly oval shape. These petals are hardly connected to the flower head’s center. The plant’s top leaves are small and born on short stalks, and they resemble toothed footballs. The bottom leaves, on the other hand, are profoundly lobed and look like eggs.

Effect: Wild radish seeds can contaminate hay, wheat, etc., making their spread much more effortless. The plant is an invasive species that can outcompete and suppress native and beneficial plants. Wild radish is poisonous to horses, according to the ASPCA.

Restraint: Using herbicides is the best way to eliminate this plant since it saves you money and it’s effective. Go for products containing dicamba and 2,4-D, but pay close attention to your application, or you’ll end up ruining your lawn.

Wild Parsnip

Identification: The Wild parsnip has a compound flower head that resembles an umbrella, and it contains many tiny flowers. The plant has soft and toothed, deep green leaves with an almost-like mitten shape. It can grow up to heights of 1.5 – 5 feet.

Effect: Although Wild parsnip isn’t that common on lawns, some stray seeds can still germinate and invade your lawn. The plant spreads its seeds rapidly and is aggressive, putting existing flora along the way in danger. The plant even has a chemical that can make your skin more susceptible to sunburn, so handle it with care.

Restraint: One way to control wild parsnip is to mow it down after it blooms but before it sets seed. However, if the seeds are already there, use a plastic bag to cover them, cut the flower heads, and get rid of them.

Wintercress

Identification: Wintercress is also called yellow rocket, and it has a compound flower consisting of numerous club-shaped flowers. The plant’s leaves are oval, but their ends have rounded lobes. Wintercress typically reaches heights of 12 – 25 inches.

Effect: This plant can self-seed, producing up to 10,000 seeds per plant. Wintercress can get aggressive and invasive, spreading all over your lawn if you fail to deal with it in its early stages. Furthermore, it’s toxic to horses.

Restraint: You can control this weed by digging up or mowing the entire plant, but you must do so before it flowers. Post-emergent, broadleaf herbicides containing 2,4-D are also another option you can explore.

Yellow Salsify

Identification: Another plant that looks like dandelions, but the leaves that are close to the flower give it a starry look rather than a rounded one. The yellow salsify’s leaves resemble grass, but they have a more triangular shape. The plant never exceeds a height of 3 feet.

Effect: Yellow salsify spreads by seeds, and one plant can bear up to 1,000 viable seeds. The seeds are light, making them easily transferable on your entire lawn or even further through the wind. Fortunately, this weed doesn’t impact the native ecosystem negatively, take up much space, or persist in any way.

Restraint: If you notice the plant appearing, you can pull it out, but you must remove all the roots. Mowing isn’t practical when dealing with yellow salsify, so you don’t need to change your normal mowing routine. If the infestation becomes a serious problem, you can use weed killers containing 2,4-D, dicamba, picloram, etc.

Yellow Nutsedge

Identification: Yellow nutsedge is a weed that looks like grass, but has thicker blades that are coarser than the blades of most lawn grasses. The plant produces triangular-shaped flowering stalks that are adorned with thin, wheat-like blossoms. The yellow nutsedge can reach heights of 3 feet, so it’ll really stand out.

Effect: The yellow nutsedge grows from tubers, and you can transfer it together with the soil. The plant spreads through rhizomes, so it can easily take over your lawn. Fortunately, its seeds hardly germinate, but it’s still regarded as invasive.

Restraint: The yellow nutsedge can go undetected for a pretty long time before you notice it has spread all over your lawn. Digging and pulling the yellow nutsedge out at this point is pointless, so weed killers are the best option you have of eliminating this weed. Cool-weather grasses are best controlled by weed killers containing sulfentrazone and halosulfuron.

Yellow Hawkweed

Identification: Yellow hawkweed is another plant that resembles dandelions. The plant’s stems branch towards the top and contain golden blossoms, but they are primarily without foliage. The height of the yellow hawkweed is the distinguishing feature, with the plant growing up to 3 feet tall.

Effect: The yellow hawkweed multiplies by seeds, rhizomes, and stolons, making it almost impossible to prevent its spread. This makes the yellow hawkweed challenging to control and somehow invasive, but the good news is that it’s not toxic to pets and humans.

Restraint: The most effective way to control yellow hawkweed is to remove it by hand in the spring before it blooms and spreads to your entire lawn. Use weed killers that have glyphosate if the infestation is already out of control. Remember, this product can also kill grass, so you’ll need to reseed it sometime afterward.

Yellow Lantana

Identification: The yellow lantana has gorgeous hydrangea-like flower heads that give it a mesmerizing look, but it’s still considered a weed. The plant’s broad leaves have a rough texture and are slightly toothed, with an oval-like shape. The yellow lantana has a bushy appearance and can grow up to 6 ft tall and 10 ft wide.

Effect: This plant can self-seed, but since the available species are mostly ornamental, you can only use cuttings to multiply it. As a result, it poses a low risk of harm to your landscape and other flora in your garden.

Restraint: The yellow lantana isn’t invasive and won’t harm your small ecosystem, so there isn’t necessarily a reason to get rid of it. However, since the plant can take up large portions of land, it would be best to place a border between it and your lawn or move the plant about 10 feet away from your lawn.

Yellow Sorrel (Oxalis)

Identification: You’ll find the yellow sorrel on the list of weeds with blue flowers, but the plant will have sky-colored flowers. The plant has green shamrock leaves and inverted-heart flowers that won’t necessarily bother you because the plant only reaches heights of 3 – 8 inches.

Effect: This weed spreads through rhizomes and seeds, and can quickly spread all over your lawn and garden. However, the yellow oxalis isn’t considered invasive, so that’s some good news.

Restraint: One of the most effective ways of preventing yellow sorrel is keeping your lawn healthy and maintaining it; this will also suffocate the plant while it’s still young. Alternatively, if you see heart-shaped flowers in your grass, you can remove the plant by hand. Ensure you remove all the roots and do it before the plant flowers.

Yellow Toadflax

Identification: The yellow toadflax’s creamy-yellow flowers look like snapdragon flowers, but they are more like bottle brushes. The plant’s pointy, lanceolate, and silvery-green foliage resembles grass blades, but since they grow on stalks and come in pairs, you can quickly identify them. The yellow toadflax reaches a height of 1 – 3 feet.

Effect: Similar to the yellow oxalis, the yellow toadflax multiplies through seeds and rhizomes. The plant grows in patches, ruining the texture and form of your lawn. The yellow toadflax is poisonous in western states, including New Mexico, Colorado, etc., and has an invasive nature.

Restraint: Use products containing chlorsulfuron or picloram once you notice a couple of these plants flowering in your lawn. However, it would be best to combine diflufenzopyr and picloram to yield better results.

Final Remarks

We’ve covered an extensive list of weeds containing tiny yellow flowers that might invade your lawn and take over it.

To be fair, some weeds on the list are alluring, but they’ll look much better in a rock garden or a similar setting than in your all-green lawn or yard.

We hope the tips we’ve shared will help you identify various species and eradicate them.

See you next time, bye!

If you are a fan of melons of all different sizes and shapes, summer is probably your best season of the year, especially if your favorite melon is cantaloupe.

Cantaloupes are known for their sweet flavor, and they are rich in folate, potassium, beta carotene, and vitamins A and C. So, you’ll be savoring the deliciousness of the orange flesh while also improving your overall well-being.

I have been growing cantaloupe for quite some years, and, take it from me, growing them is pretty straightforward. If you plan on growing them, you should definitely try making a cantaloupe smoothie; you’ll be making this yummy drink every day!

The number of cantaloupes you can harvest from one plant depends on the growing conditions you’re providing and the cantaloupe variety. 

This article will provide you with information on growing melons as well as the number of sweet fruits you can expect to harvest from each cantaloupe plant.

Let’s get started!

How Many Cantaloupes Per Plant

Cantaloupes are a type of muskmelon, and their name was derived from a North American variety known as C. melo var. reticulatas. The European variety is known as C. melo var. cantalupensis, and it’s also pretty famous.

Knowing how many cantaloupes each plant produces can help you determine how many cantaloupes you can grow in your home garden once you decide to plant them!

Cantaloupe plants produce two fruits per plant, as per a case study conducted on 20 different cantaloupe species. The fruits are generally large, with an average weight of 4 – 5 lbs, which can reach 10 lbs in total. However, this figure will vary among different varieties.

Cantaloupe plants usually have a long growing season, with their harvesting coming at least 80 – 120 days after planting the seeds. Similarly, harvesting will also depend on the growing conditions and cultivar.

I recommend you grow smaller varieties if you plan to grow cantaloupes commercially; smaller types will get you numerous fruits during harvesting compared to other cultivars. For example, you can harvest at least 20,000 fruits per acre (about 43,500 square feet).

Nevertheless, these smaller cantaloupe varieties only weigh about 3 pounds. Their weight is influenced by the available space you provide for them to thrive and how you plan on using your cantaloupes. Bear in mind that cantaloupes are vining fruits, so they’ll require ample space to spread their majestic long vines!

Cantaloupe Cultivars and Sizes

According to research done on different cantaloupe varieties, one variety known as Home Run came out as the best since the cultivar has the highest number of fruits per plant and produces fruits earlier. Ambrosia and the Hale Best Jumbo varieties were classified as fast growers, while the Avatar cultivar is known for having the most enormous fruits!

The growing conditions available will highly influence the type of variety you’ll choose; for instance, you shouldn’t sow seeds in an area that’s filled with other Cucurbits.

The following table displays different cantaloupe cultivars, how many fruits per plant, and their average size.

Cantaloupes Growth and Care Guide

As mentioned earlier, cantaloupes are pretty easy to grow, particularly in Arizona, since they adore warm climates and the sun!

However, some varieties, such as the Minnesota Midget, can thrive in somewhat colder climates. Ensure you carefully analyze your environment before you choose a cultivar to grow.

Planting Cantaloupes

To extend the growing season, start your seeds indoors, as these plants prefer warmer climates. Typically, it would be best if you planted your seeds 4 – 6 weeks before the last frost date. For germination to occur, soil temperature should be about 70℉. You can add row covers to keep the soil warm if you intend on sowing your seeds outdoors.

Transplant your seedlings once they have been established. Cantaloupe seedlings can easily be harmed during transplantation since they have sensitive roots, so I recommend you plant them in plantable pots. Alternatively, you can find some heated propagation trays and use them.

Pick a location in your garden that receives plenty of sunlight and ensures the soil is always moist. Black plastic is an excellent mulch option since it helps retain moisture, prevent weed growth, and keep the soil warm.

Cantaloupes are self-pollinating, meaning they have female and male flowers. Still, bees and other pollinators are essential for the production of those sweet fruits to occur. A trellis might come in hand as the plant grows to help you control its long vines.

Some netting or old pantyhose will also help support your plant and prevent fruits from detaching.

Although you should be aware that their vines may grow over the edges, you can even use raised beds to grow smaller and bushier varieties.

Growing Cantaloupes

Growing cantaloupes is just as easy as planting them, so there’s no need to worry!

Cantaloupe plants flourish in well-draining soil rich in nutrients. I would advise you to conduct a quick soil test in your garden before planting them to know what type of soil you are dealing with. 

During the growing season, these plants must acquire lots of nutrients, so feeding them with some fertilizer or other organic matter, such as compost, is a key factor in the growth and care of cantaloupe plants.

Fertilize your cantaloupe plants during the seedling stage and add some mulch to prevent weed growth. The growing guide of cantaloupe plants is pretty similar to that of watermelons, so that they can be great companion plants.

Cantaloupes flourish in full sun and need about 8 hours of sunlight throughout the day. The ideal temperature for these muskmelons during their growing stage is 18 – 25℃ (65 -95℉). Anything beyond 35℃ (95℉) and below 10℃ (50℉) can adversely restrict your plants’ growth.

Since different cultivars have different needs, it’s critical to choose a cultivar that best fits your environment. It would be best to water your plants more frequently to help them survive extremely high temperatures.

Additionally, ensure there is good air circulation since it helps with the pollination process, making it more manageable.

Give your plant adequate water after planting it. Provide at least 2.5 – 5 cm (1 – 2 in) of water, depending on the weather during the growing and flowering stages. After the fruit grows, reduce your watering to harvest sweeter fruits!

Please don’t allow your plant’s leaves to be wet since they can get powdery mildew and other infections. Water the soil until the top 15 cm (6 in) are damp, and always water at the soil level.

Never overwater watermelons since the roots will become mushy and prone to root rot. Your plants won’t give you an excellent harvest when they have root rot!

Check for aphid infestation if your plant’s leaves turn yellow. Aphids are known for stealing nutritious plant juices, inhibiting your plant from producing enough fruit. Insecticidal soap, neem oil, and pesticides are some practical solutions for eliminating these annoying pests.

Summing Up

We aimed to help you anticipate how many cantaloupes you can expect from each plant, and we hope you know that now. Cantaloupes have a greenish-tan rind (although stripes vary with different cultivars) and a delicious orange-colored flesh inside.

You can use cantaloupes in various ways — make a summer dessert, enjoy some smiley wedges, or freeze them to make delicious popsicles. Whichever way you choose to use them, you won’t regret it one bit!

Cantaloupes are one of the easiest plants to grow from seeds, and growing them in your garden is a pretty simple task. You need only place them in a sunny location, water them, and feed them with some fertilizer occasionally, and you’ll harvest some fruity, delicious melons in no time!

Have a nice time, bye!

Cactus is the king of the desert. This low-maintenance plant can survive even in the harshest and hottest climates. Not only this, but they’re also extremely diverse.

One thing about cacti is that they’re slow growers, way slower even than other succulents. So while they may seem to have retarded growth, they are, in fact, growing just at a very slow rate. You will want to exercise some patience when growing these plants.

The good news is for those looking for rapid results, there are some varieties you can try. This article will explore a list of these fast-growing cactus species.

Fastest Growing Cactus Species

There are over 2000 cactus species, which is no wonder you can find varieties with a range of growth rates. The cactus comes from the Cactaceae family, which includes plants such as saguaro.

If you are a cactus enthusiast or looking to see your cactus grow faster, here is a list of the fastest-growing species you can try.

Austrocylindropuntia Subulata

Also known as the Eve’s needle cactus, the Austrocylindropuntia subulata is a succulent native to the Peruvian Andes. It’s one of the best options for a fast-growing Cactus variety.

This plant can grow up to 3 feet in a single year. While it doesn’t get very tall and will rarely exceed 9 feet, its width expands frighteningly fast. For the plant to thrive and grow healthily without impacting other plants, it needs to be well-spaced or planted away from other plants. 

The Austrocylindropuntia subulata grows as a shrub with glossy green stems and long elongated branches with curved and fleshy leaves. 

The plant blooms to produce pink flowers and egg-shaped green fruits that add to the beauty of this mesmerizing plant. 

Pereskia Aculeata

The Pereskia Aculeata has two growth stages that are very distinct. In its early stages, it grows as a shrub, and when it matures, it turns into a climbing vine. This plant is native to South America, West India, and Panama.

The growth rate for this succulent is about 3 feet per year, and when provided with the right conditions, it can grow to about 30 feet.

In some regions of the world, the Pereskia Aculeata is considered invasive, but it produces edible fruits commonly known as the Barbados gooseberry.

Epiphyllum

Native to Mexico and Central America, Epiphyllum is a vining succulent with a growth rate of approximately one foot per year. Under optimal growing conditions, this rate can increase to up to 3 feet per year. 

Also known as the Dutchman’s pipe cactus, the epiphyllum has waxy oval-shaped leaves and blooms to produce white, yellow, and pink flowers. The fruits of the plant also come in a variety of colors, such as orange, yellow, or red. 

Its fast growth rate and vining habit make this plant invasive in some parts of the world.

Opuntia (Prickly Pear Cactus)

This prickly cactus variety is common and native to Central Mexico. The Opuntia cactus variety has great significance in the commercial food production section. The plants have become a means of livelihood for many people, but they are also invasive and a great environmental concern in other parts of the world.

This cactus type can grow up to 30 inches per year.

There are several varieties of the prickly pear cactus, but the most common variety for consumption is the Opuntia ficus-indica. While the fruits are a delicacy in many parts of the world, harvesting them is challenging due to the glochids and spines on the pads and fruit. 

You must carefully cut and remove the spines and hairs from the pads during harvesting. The fruits can either be consumed raw or you can cook them with the various available recipes.

Cylindropuntia

The Cylindropuntia is a distinct genus of the cacti plant that consists of about 20 plants and is native to Mexico. These plants are shrubby and are viewed as the groundcover variety of cactus plants, but they can also grow into trees.

The growth rate of this cactus variety is 15 inches per year.

Sometimes, there may be confusion in identifying the Cylindropuntia cactus plant since it was previously classified under the Opuntia subgenus but has since been changed. However, you can find some Opuntia types known as cholla cacti.

The cholla cacti type is prevalent in Mexico and the southern United States. One of the common names of this succulent is jumping Cholla since it can jump at you. “Jumping” refers to the stems attaching to you as you touch them.

Even though this is an exciting feature, you should be careful when handling the plant as you may get pricked by the thorns.

Another famous plant from this genus is the Cylindropuntia spinosior. This cacti, which is native to Arizona and Mexico, produces yellow edible fruits. Growers have successfully made a hybrid of Cylindropuntia spinosior and jumping Cholla and named it Cylindropuntia x kelvinensis.

Trichocereus

Under the right growing conditions outdoors, the Trichocereus may grow up to 10-20 feet. This succulent, also known as the San Pedro cactus, is native to the Sonoran desert. 

Trichocereus is preferable to many growers since it can tolerate fairly hard conditions compared to other plants under the Cereus genus. The plant doesn’t need much water or sunlight to thrive. 

The growth rate of this cactus plant is about 11 inches per year.

The San Pedro cactus contains a compound known as mescaline, which makes the plant hallucinogenic. This property had made the succulent famous in rituals of peyote.

Hylocereus Undatus

Perhaps you know this fruit by its cooler name, the dragon fruit cactus. The plant is native to Mexico and the Central and southern United States.

This cactus variety can grow up to 15 inches per year and grows as tall as 20 feet.

As the plant grows older, it develops aerial roots that cling to the plant’s surface. As such, these plants are seen as a vining type of cactus. When growing this plant as a houseplant, the best time for planting is during spring. 

Patience is crucial when growing the Hylocereus undatus, as the plant will take about seven years to develop from seed to fruit. However, if you use cuttings to propagate your plants, fruition should take about two years. 

Cereus Peruvianus

Native to South America, the Cereus Peruvianus is a cactus you can either grow outdoors or indoors as a houseplant. It’s also known as the Peruvian apple cactus.

When grown outdoors in soil, the plant will grow about 15 inches a year. On the other hand, when growing the plant indoors in a pot, it‘ll grow about 4 inches per year.

The good thing about this cactus variety is that it grows in a single column and has a long lifespan. The column can grow up to 30 feet. These columns are bluish-gray-green, with about three to five blades in each column.

What’s more is that the fruits of this cacti plant are edible, and if you happen to find yourself in South America, you can purchase some pitayas, which is the name that they go by. 

When fully ripe, pitayas are one of the best fruits you will ever taste!

Pachycereus Pringlei

One of the giant varieties of cactus. The Mexican giant cardon cactus is the world’s tallest cactus, and it grows up to 63 feet. 

The growth rate per year is about 11 inches, and while it may seem slow, it’s actually quite fast for a cactus, especially considering the height that this variety reaches.

Its ease of maintenance and unique look also make it a good indoor plant but much smaller in this case.

Once it matures, the Pachycereus pringlei produces about 3-inch-long flowers. 

Cleistocactus Strausii

Also known as the silver torch, the Cleistocactus Strausii is native to Argentina and Bolivia.

The growth rate in this succulent is about 3 inches per year.

This cactus is one of the most beautiful and mesmerizing plants you can grow. It has slender columns that grow to about 10 feet and silver and blue spines. 

The plant will produce burgundy flowers when the column grows to about 18 inches. 

The best place to grow the plant is in pots, raised beds, or narrow spaces. To enjoy the mesmerizing beauty of this plant, grow it next to other exotic cacti.

Thanksgiving, Easter, and Christmas Cactus

There are some varieties of cactus that are reserved mainly for holidays. All these varieties grow up to 3 inches per year.

First, there is the schlumbergera truncata, also known as the False Christmas cactus or Thanksgiving cactus. It produces red, white, orange, and pink flowers during Thanksgiving, hence the name. 

This plant has fairly even growth where it grows 24 inches long and 2 inches wide. 

Another variety of holiday cactus is the rhipsalideae gaertneri. Even though it belongs to the Cactaceae family, this plant doesn’t resemble a cactus. Its native origins are the Brazilian rainforests. 

Blooming time for the rhipsalideae gaertneri is during the winter and spring when it produces colorful pink, red, orange, white, and purple flowers. This succulent is easy to grow and will make a good houseplant, even for beginners, since it’s low maintenance.

The easter cactus grows up to 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide.

Lastly, there’s the schlumbergera x buckleyi, which is also known as the Christmas cactus. Like the Easter cactus, it also blooms in winter and produces flowers in a variety of colors, such as white, red, pink, magenta, and purple.

In some cases, the flowers can be salmon, cream, or orange. 

The Christmas cactus is a crossbreed of Schlumbergera truncata and Schlumbergera russelliana.

Mammillaria

Another major genera in the Cactaceae family. The Mammillaria genus includes over 200 species and varieties of cactus.

Mammillaria has some of the smallest cactus species that grow from 2 inches to about 24 inches when mature. The growth rate is about half an inch per year, and while it may seem to be slow, it’s quite fast considering the mature size of the plants.

Blooming for plants in this genus lasts for only one week.

Since there are so many cacti from this genus, you can choose flowers to suit your taste from a variety of stunning colors. With over 200 varieties, you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing a cactus. Their size also makes them ideal houseplants.

Echinopsis Terscheckii (Cardon Grande Cactus)

The Argentine saguaro cactus is a fast-growing columnar cactus variety that can grow up to 25 feet or more. This makes it one of the largest cacti under the Echinopsis species. 

The growth rate for the cactus is 3 inches per year. When grown as an indoor plant, it can reach a height of 3 feet. The size may be smaller, but if you provide it with the right care requirements, it can even surpass 3 feet. 

A mature Cardon Grande Cactus will produce 10-inch branches with 8-14 yellow spines and ribs. Blooming takes place in April when the plant produces spectacular white night flowers 8 inches long and have a beautiful scarlet green outer segment. 

If you are a fan of exotic plants, then this cactus should definitely be on your list. 

Rhipsalis

This cacti comes from the broader Rhipsalideae family, which has three other genera.

The growth rate for the Rhipalis is 3 inches per year.

One thing that differentiates members of the Rhipsalideae family is that they lack spines and can thrive even in the absence of direct sunlight. Surprisingly, these plants require a lot of water.

They have long, thin, interwoven stems that differentiate them from other cacti species.

Even though they require a lot of water, they are quite hardy, and in their natural habitat, they grow on trees or rocks. When growing them as a houseplant, you’ll have to use a succulent potting mix.

Rhipsalis bloom to produce white and yellow flowers.

How to Make a Cactus Grow Faster 

Having a fast-growing cactus is one thing, but learning how to make these plants grow faster could accelerate the growth speed even further.

Each plant thrives when provided with the right growing conditions; the same applies to cacti. 

There are several factors you should take into account, such as light,  soil, temperature, humidity, fertilization, and watering for your cacti plants to have healthy growth. Additionally, the plant will do even better if you adjust the conditions to accommodate the cactus’s needs.

Here is what your cactus plant needs.

The Right Soil 

Before choosing soil to grow your cacti plants in, there are several things you should consider.

First, these plants thrive in well-draining soil. If your soil has poor drainage, there are several materials you can use to improve the drainage, such as perlite, pebbles, and sand.

Secondly, the soil needs to be porous. This means that the soil should have plenty of air spaces. Compact soils like clay tend to retain a lot of water, which may adversely affect the plant. 

Finally, the soil you choose for the plant should have plenty of organic matter, which contributes to its nutritional value. Adding materials such as peat moss and coco coir will increase the soil’s nutritional content, which is exactly what your plant needs. 

You can skip all these amendment processes by buying ready-made soil that has been designed explicitly for cactus plants.

Right Temperature

The best temperatures for a cactus plant are 70 and 80℉.

During the winter, these temperatures can drop as low as 55℉ since it’s the cool-down period for the plant. 

Most cacti plants are used to the extremely cold night temperatures in the desert. Some varieties can tolerate temperatures as low as 35℉, but if you are growing indoor plants that haven’t been exposed to such harsh climates, you should protect them from winter drafts.

Adjust the Lighting 

Cacti are desert plants and, as such, need plenty of direct sunlight each day. This plant should be exposed to 4-6 hours of direct sunlight. 

However, some forest and desert cacti can’t tolerate high-intensity direct sunlight, which may kill them. One sign that you need to adjust the light level of your plant is when your cactus plant turns white. 

Place your plant in a place where it can receive plenty of light. I would recommend a place with plenty of indirect sunlight, such as near a sunny window. The east or south-facing window should be optimal as the plant will receive plenty of filtered sunlight during the summer and direct sunlight during the winter when temperatures are low.

If access to natural light is a problem, then you should invest in grow lights and a light meter. This will ensure your plant can receive rough light and allow you to adjust the light intensity.

Fertilize

Fertilization is unnecessary when growing cacti plants, but adding a little fertilizer will do your plants a lot of good. 

When fertilizing, these plants use high-quality fertilizer specifically designed for cactus plants. Avoid using all-purpose fertilizers as they won’t be effective. The NPK ratio in regular fertilizers won’t cater to all the needs of your plant, as cacti plants prefer fertilizers that are rich in phosphorus. 

The best time to fertilize these succulents is during the growing season, which is usually in the spring or summer. Fertilize the plant 2-3 times during this period. Never fertilize your cactus plants during winter. 

When fertilizing, ensure you follow the instructions on the fertilizer packaging to the letter.

Watering

Your cactus plant doesn’t need much watering, but this doesn’t mean that it should be neglected completely. While it may seem quite impossible, cacti plants can, in fact, be underwatered.

However, what you should really watch out for is overwatering the plant. Remember that overwatering cacti plants can slow their growth, which will be counterproductive if you want your plants to grow fast.

Overwatering impacts the plants by clogging the air spaces in the soil; this reduces the oxygen supply and intake in the plant, consequently leading to root rot.

Root rot is one of the common causes of succulents shriveling and dying off, especially if the plant is being grown indoors. 

Since active growing occurs during the summer and spring, the frequency of watering should increase during this period. Water the plant thoroughly after every ten days to allow the roots to uptake nutrients from the soil. 

Before watering the plant again, wait for the soil to completely dry out. This reduces the risk of waterlogging the soil. The first few inches of the soil should be completely dry before you water the plant. Waterlogged soil causes root rot and may also attract pathogens that may harm your plant.

During winter, cacti plants are in a dormant stage. This means that the plants aren’t actively growing. As such, the watering rate should be reduced to once a month. Reduce the watering frequency to once every six weeks for the desert cactus variety.

Stick your finger in the soil, and if the first few inches are completely dry, it’s time to water your cactus plant. If they aren’t, you should wait slightly longer before watering.

Check Humidity levels

As with other plants, monitoring humidity levels on your cactus is also important. Wholesome succulents need high humidity levels to thrive; this isn’t the case with cacti plants.

In fact, cacti plants will thrive and grow faster under moderate humidity levels. 

Why Are Cacti Plants Slow Growers

Cacti plants require a lot of patience, so don’t be demotivated even when they seem to be growing slowly. The most important thing is to ensure that your plant is healthy.

The main reason cacti plants grow slowly is that they are adapted to their environment, which usually has soil low in nutrients. Cacti plants have to adapt to this environment to survive.

Additionally, cacti plants lack leaves, so they don’t photosynthesize like other plants. The absence of leaves reduces the amount of sun rays that cacti plants can absorb to grow, and this slows down the photosynthesis process and, consequently, the growth. The amount of chlorophyll on cacti stems is low compared to the amount of chlorophyll in leaves, hence the slow growth. 

Growing cacti plants from seeds can give you a better insight into the growth rate of these plants. Propagation through seeds is easy, but you’ll have to be very patient.

In many plants, germination usually takes place after a short period once the seeds have been planted. However, for cacti plants, you have to wait for at least a month before germination happens. There is nothing you can do to accelerate the growth process at this time. But it’s worth the wait.

Fun Facts About Cacti Plants 

Cacti plants are quite interesting. Here are some fun facts about them.

Cacti plants are one of the most popular plants among growers and gardeners due to their low maintenance. As we have explained before, each variety has a different growth rate.

The most popular cacti varieties are the Easter cactus, golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii), ladyfinger cactus (from the Mammillaria gents), and saguaro cactus. Another species that may come up when looking for popular cacti is the Euphorbia species, which is succulent and not a cacti species.

The Copiapoa cinerea cactus that’s native to Chile is considered the most expensive cacti. A legit Copiapoa cinerea goes for around $900. 

The high prices are attributed to the fact that the plant is on the verge of extinction due to exploitation. 

The tallest measured cactus is the saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea), which can reach heights of over 40 feet.

Commonly Asked Questions 

What are the easiest cacti to grow?

Most cacti are easy to grow, but one variety stands out: the barrel cactus (Ferocactus). The only thing you have to pay close attention to when growing this plant is light and watering. Water the plant when the soil dries up and place it in an ideal location, and you won’t have to worry about your plant. 

What are the fastest-growing succulents?

The fastest-growing succulents are those with leaves like the Echeveria species, variegated-leaved aeonium sunburst, Crassula species, and the aurora pink jelly bean sedum.

Do cacti grow in water?

While cacti plants may grow in water, they won’t thrive as this isn’t their natural habitat. If you want your plants to thrive, you have to grow them in organic matter. Since cacti plants are susceptible to root rot, growing them in water will multiply this risk. However, you can propagate cacti plants in water and transplant them into the soil once the roots have sprouted. 

Summing Up 

Their ease of maintenance, price, and availability have made cacti plants some of the most popular house plants. While the growth rate of these plants may be low, their unique appearance will surely add more visual interest to your garden or space.

Patience is crucial when growing these plants as their slow growth rate may sometimes be confused for stunted growth. Luckily, there are some fast-growing varieties you can opt for if you are impatient.

Provide your cactus plant with the right plant care requirements, and you’ll enjoy its mesmerizing beauty for years.

Pumpkins are one of the fruits with a lot of significance in today’s world. They are a vital ingredient in making pies and play a major part in Halloween decorations, not to mention they’re also included in folklore with the likes of Cinderella. 

With the trove of benefits that pumpkins provide, it’s advisable to have at least one variety in your garden. 

The number of fruits your pumpkin plant produces will depend on the growing conditions as well as the variety. This number may range from 1 to 12. 

Are you looking to determine the exact number of pumpkins your plant will produce for planning purposes, say for Halloween? This article will examine the number of fruits you should expect per plant. 

So read on to find out.

How Many Pumpkins Per Plant?

This largely depends on the pumpkin variety that you grow. Small pumpkin varieties, like miniature ones, will produce up to 12 fruits, and standard pumpkin plants will produce up to 5 pumpkins. In contrast, the giant pumpkin varieties will produce just one pumpkin per plant.

Let’s get deep into the details.

Size of the Pumpkin Plant 

There are different sizes and varieties of pumpkins, from small miniature ones to giant varieties. The size of the fruit that you get will depend on the type that you grow. 

Here are the main varieties that you can grow.

Miniature Pumpkin

Miniature pumpkins are one of the most interesting pumpkin varieties to grow. Not only do they produce a lot of pumpkins, but they also come in different colors so that you may surprise your visitors with unique pumpkin decor. 

In one growing season, the pumpkin may produce up to 12 fruits. 

Some of the common types of miniature pumpkins include the Jack Be Little (Jack B) and Baby Boo. These pumpkins weigh between half to 2 pounds. 

One of the best things about small pumpkin varieties is that they are vining or climbing. Therefore, they’ll offer a spectacular view if you control the vines well. 

Common colors of the pumpkin include white, orange, and yellow. 

Small Pumpkin 

Secondly, there are small pumpkin varieties. These pumpkins are larger than the miniature type but smaller than the standard variety. Small pumpkins weigh about 3 to 5 pounds and will produce 8 to 10 pumpkins. 

If you want to make sweet, delicious pies, this is the variety to use. These pumpkins are sweeter and less stringy as compared to larger varieties.

Medium-Sized Pumpkin 

For medium-sized pumpkins, expect the harvest to be between 3 to 6 pumpkins. The good news is that these pumpkins weigh between 6 to 10 pounds, so what they don’t have in numbers, they compensate with by size.

Some of the common varieties in this category are the Jumpin’ Jack, Howden, and Cinderella pumpkin. Key uses of large pumpkins include curving out Halloween decor and making delicious treats such as pies.

Giant Pumpkin 

As the name suggests, giant pumpkins are really giant in size. The pumpkins can weigh between 50 and 2000 pounds. Some of the famed varieties in this category include the Big Max and Dill’s Atlantic Giant.

Research shows that the largest giant pumpkin ever grown weighed over 2,500 pounds (would accommodate several Cinderellas).

If you decide this is the variety you want to grow, you’ll have to ensure that the plant has all the right conditions and settle for just one fruit (albeit a really giant one).

Planting Pumpkins 

Growing pumpkin is easy! They can survive just about anywhere as long as you give them the right growing conditions. The only thing that you should be concerned about is the variety that you want. 

Like all other plants, pumpkins need to be provided with different conditions to promote healthy growth. You’ll need to provide the plant with the right soil type and the right location. Also, try and keep it away from other plants, as pumpkins thrive on solitude. 

Here is what you should consider before growing pumpkins.

Choose the Right Time

One thing about pumpkins is that they are enemies with frost and can’t stand this type of weather even for a second. Avoid frost weather when growing pumpkins. The best time to grow them is in late spring or early summer when temperatures are above 50℉. However, the right time to grow these plants will depend on the region that you live in.

For example, for people in the United States who want to grow medium-sized pumpkins, the right time to grow them is early May or June. In some cases, certain varieties mature faster, and as such, you can grow them as late as July and still expect a harvest in autumn. 

Depending on the climate, the growing season may either be long or short. In warmer areas, the growing season will last longer compared to colder areas.

People in warmer areas can sow their seeds outdoors, while those in colder areas will have to start them indoors. If you notice there is a danger of frost, sow the seeds a week before planting them and wait for the harsh frost weather to pass before planting the pumpkins outdoors.

Spacing Between Plants 

Pumpkins are prone to plant diseases like downy mildew, powdery mildew, and anthracnose (fungal infections). Additionally, the plant may also develop bacterial infections, such as bacterial leaf spots. The fruits may also be prone to fruit rot if the plant isn’t provided with the right growing conditions. 

These diseases are contracted as a result of wet air that causes the microbes to thrive and spread the disease. To increase the chances of survival and yield of your plants, ensure your pumpkins are well-spaced.

The spacing will vary depending on the variety that you decide to grow. Some varieties are vining and will require enough space to spread out, while other varieties are bushy and, as such, less compact and need less space.

There are two types of space you need to consider: Row spacing and the space between each row. 

Here is how you should space each pumpkin variety:

While some gardeners may argue that pumpkins need equal spacing, I suggest that you stick to the stipulated spacing to get the best results.  

Choose the Right Location 

The right place to grow pumpkins should receive plenty of sunlight as these plants thrive in full to partial sun. The plant needs a minimum of 6 hours of full sun per day. If your plant can get more, the results will be even better. As they say, the more, the merrier!

The number of pumpkins you harvest depends on the amount of sunlight your plants receive. 

Soil Type 

Pumpkins require soils with pH levels ranging from 6.0 to 6.5 that are warm and well-draining. 

Before growing your plants, you should make a soil pH test by using a kit meant explicitly for testing soil pH levels. If you notice the soil acidity needs adjusting, you can use acidifiers to adjust it or use alkalizing products to increase the alkalinity. 

Optimal growing soil should also be rich in nutrients and organic matter. The sandy texture is also preferred as pumpkins can’t withstand waterlogged soils. 

If your garden has compact soils, you can add some well-rotted manure, compost, or mulch to improve drainage and water retention. Adding fish emulsion is another way to increase the soil’s nutrient content. 

Ensure Company 

While pumpkins shouldn’t be mixed with other plants, they’ll surely grow better if there are other plants in the garden or vicinity. However, paying attention to the kind of companion plants you choose is important. 

The perfect companion plant for pumpkins should:

• Repel pests
• Attract pollinators 
• Promote pumpkin growth 

Luckily, many plants fit this description, including mint, garlic, corn, melon, sage, mint, and thyme.

When growing pumpkins, you should be careful to plant them next to close relatives, such as squash. Growing these two plants close together could lead to cross-pollination, and that will affect the final product. 

Even though cross-pollination may not affect the fruits, it could affect the seeds. When planted, the cross-pollinated seeds will give you weird fruits. If you find yourself in this predicament, harvest the fruits but destroy the seeds later after harvest. 

Some plants like beets, potatoes, onions, and root crops should never be planted near pumpkins. This is because when harvesting these crops, you may interfere with the sensitive pumpkin roots. If grown together, you’ll need a lot of space between the crops and pumpkins. 

Growing Pumpkins 

Growing your pumpkin plants in the required conditions will produce enough fruits (depending on the variety). 

The germination process will take a few days. You’ll need about four pumpkin seeds or transplants per mound. To prevent any issues with germination, place row covers over the mound. Once the plants germinate, pay close attention to the conditions to promote healthy growth in the subsequent growth stages. 

For the best results, pumpkins will need sufficient watering, nutrients, and mulch. If your plants have excess foliage, they’ll also need pruning. Fertilization isn’t an essential requirement, but if you do choose to fertilize, use the right amount to avoid overfertilization. 

Let’s look deeper into the growth requirements.

Water Requirements

Watering shouldn’t be spared when growing pumpkins; they need a lot of water. About an inch of water per week will suffice. The high dehydration rate of pumpkins brings about this increased need for water. When temperatures get hotter during the summer, adjust the watering schedule accordingly. 

When watering, be careful not to splash on the leaves and stems, as this could lead to the development of fungal diseases. Water activates the nutrients in the soil, which are then taken up by the roots to other parts of the plant. 

Fertilizer Requirements

Pumpkins produce delicious fruits that will definitely make it on the list when the pie season begins. A little feeding will go a long way in improving the produce.

Fertilization should be done every month once the plant starts flowering. The fertilizer should be rich in nitrogen content, which helps increase the foliage of young plants, and phosphorus, which helps with flowering during the blooming phase. During the growing stage, feed the plant with a combination of potassium and phosphorus.  

Fertilizers should be applied during the growth stage of the plant, usually during the spring or summer. 

Pruning 

Pruning is vital for pumpkins since they need a lot of space to grow. By pruning the vines, you increase the space available for the plant to expand. Pruning also helps the plant focus its energy on other important functions like fruit formation.

Mulch Application

Mulching should be done on pumpkins for three primary reasons:

1. Helps in water retention and moisture regulation.
2. Helps in deterring pests 
3. It reduces or helps with weed control

The best mulch type you can use to achieve all of the three desired outcomes is compost.

Compost not only increases the nutrient content in the soil but also serves as a good mulching agent for protective purposes. 

Support

When growing pumpkins, one key tip is elevating them from the soil once the fruit starts expanding. Use cardboard or fabric to elevate the fruit from the soil.

The best time to do this is during fruit formation. However, you can start supporting the plant once it starts gaining weight. It’s important to note that the weight of the pumpkin will depend on the variety. Each pumpkin has a different weight and, as such, may need different support structures.

Support is important as it helps retain excess water and prevents the fruit from rotting.

Turning the Pumpkin 

Now, let’s get to the aesthetic part of pumpkin growth. We call it the aesthetic part since it isn’t really a necessary step, but if your pumpkins are for decorative purposes, you should consider this step.

Carefully turn the pumpkin, not detaching it from the vine. Repeat this process for a few days, preventing a flat side. This ensures the shape of your pumpkin is well-rounded and eye-catching.

When to Harvest Pumpkins 

I’m sure you have been looking forward to the harvesting stage. 

When to harvest depends on when you start growing your pumpkins. If the crops were planted in warm soil after the last frost, you can expect a harvest before the first frost. 

When growing pumpkins, a general rule is to grow the plants after the last harvest and before the season’s first frost. 

In some cases, it may not be possible to do this, and as such, the pumpkins may not be ready during the first frost. In this case, you should cover the pumpkins with cardboard boxes, sheets, blankets, or anything similar that will protect the vines from rotting or hardening. 

Pumpkins that are ready for harvest will have a solid orange color ( color may vary depending on the variety). The rind should also be hard. You can thump the pumpkin to confirm if it’s ready. If you can’t puncture the fruit’s skin using your hands, it’s time to harvest your pumpkins. 

Another clear sign that your fruits are ready for harvesting is when the pumpkin vines start dying. 

When harvesting, put on some gloves and use a sharp sterilized knife to sever the pumpkins from the vine. 

Avoid holding on to the main vine during this process, as it can snap off completely. Cut off the stem a few inches above the plant.

More About Pumpkins 

Pumpkins have both male and female flowers, and they both play a crucial part in pollination. The male flowers appear before the female flowers and attract pollinators to the plant. Female flowers appear shortly after. For fertilization to occur, pollen must be transferred from the male flowers to the female flowers, forming fruits. 

Pumpkins can also be grown on a trellis. This will not only improve the appearance of your garden, but you’ll also get delicious pumpkins. The vines are the heart of the plant, so be careful when handling them. 

Frequently Asked Questions 

How long does it take for a pumpkin to produce fruits?

The pumpkin will take about 100 days to produce fruits. Flower formation will begin in 50-55 days. For example, if you’re growing a miniature pumpkin, the flowers will form after about 50 days, and the fruit will be ready for harvesting after 40-50 days. Standard pumpkins like the Ghost Rider will take 110 days to form fruits, while giant varieties will take 150 days.

How many pumpkins can fit per square foot?

They’ll need about 50 to 100 square feet for the vining variety. If you don’t have ample space to spare, you can try the bush varieties like Spirit and Bushkin. 

Wrapping Up 

From making pies to being the centerpiece of Halloween decor, pumpkins are really worthy of growing. 

Different varieties of pumpkins will produce different numbers of fruits. The smaller the type, the more fruits the plant will produce. Choose a variety that suits your size and uses. Large varieties are better for decor, while small varieties make delicious pies.

Choose a variety that’ll suit your garden’s size and style. You can even try the giant variety; maybe you’ll get to carve out the Cinderella Coach from it! 

As a lawn owner, one of the most important parts of your lawn care routine is aeration. It allows enough air to reach the nutrients, which in turn helps with water and nutrient absorption. 

However, aeration may leave quite a messy scene with holes and soil lumps all over. The good news is there are a few tips and tricks on what to do after aeration to ensure that you reap the maximum benefits from this process. 

Whether you decide to take on the aeration process yourself or contact a home care expert to do the job, here are several tips that could help you in your quest for the lushest and most vibrant lawn!

Done With Aerating, Now What?

After aeration, your lawn won’t have the same scenic view. In fact, it may even get you wondering whether aerating was a good idea to start with. There are holes everywhere you look!

For reassurance, aerating is a good idea. After a short period, you’ll have a thicker lawn and healthier grass, not to mention a weed-free lawn.

One of the main benefits of aeration is loosening compact soils and breaking up the thatch. There are several ways to make the most out of this process, such as ensuring the plugs of soil break down naturally, overseeding, applying fertilizers, weed treatment, and getting your watering schedule back on track.

Here is a detailed look at how to help your lawn aerate better.

Let the Plugs of Soil Break Down

Once you’re done with aeration, the first thing that may spark your concern is the plugs of soil covering your once beautiful lawn. 

While it may be tempting to break them down, the best thing to do is to let these plugs break down naturally. This takes about three weeks. In this period, they’ll break down, decompose, and gradually contribute to the nutrient content of the soil.

This is probably the least aesthetically pleasing view, but you’ll be rewarded with an amazing-looking lawn for your patience.

Regularly watering and mowing your lawn can speed up this natural process.

Alternatively, you can rake the lumps to break them down and apply the leftovers on the lawn. However, I recommend letting the natural process take its course.

Apply Fertilizers 

Now that you have disrupted the soil and reduced its compactness, it’s the ideal time to apply fertilizer to your lawn. At this time, it’ll be easier for the fertilizer to quickly dissolve and reach the grass roots, replenishing all the essential nutrients. 

There are different types of fertilizers that you can go for depending on the grass type you grow. Generally, I would recommend organic fertilizer with high nitrogen levels, which improves the foliage. 

In case you aerate the lawn in early summer, fertilizer will be crucial in protecting your yard from the hot summer climates.

Overseeding 

Most aeration machines will leave holes in the soil spaced about 3 inches from each other. If you have a thin lawn or bare spots, this is the perfect time to overseed and cover or remove any blemishes in your lawn. 

What makes this the best time to regrow your lawn is that the holes made by the machine are deep enough to allow new seeds to establish roots and protect these seeds from birds and other predators.

Fertilizing the lawn after aeration will encourage the growth and development of the new seeds. 

You can either plant the seeds by hand or use a spreader. Sowing by hand will be effective if you cover just a small area, but a spreader is more effective for large tracts. 

Seed germination takes about two weeks, depending on the variety. However, your lawn should be provided with the best conditions to support this germination; otherwise, it may germinate after a certain point.

Apply Weed Treatment 

Weeds are a common nuisance for most homeowners with a lawn. 

To ensure that the lawn is in good shape and devoid of blemishes, you have to take measures to remove weeds once they start creeping up. The best way to handle this problem is by using herbicides. 

These chemicals will kill any weeds and prevent their growth. 

With the advancements that have been made in agro pharma, you can even use a pre-emergent weed control that will kill the weeds before they even sprout. 

Unfortunately, this method can have an adverse effect if you’re overseeding your lawn by preventing the seeds from sprouting. 

To be safer, avoid applying herbicides on the lawn either six weeks before planting or four weeks after planting, as this could have the same detrimental effect. 

If you have no plan of overseeding, then this is the best time to handle the weed menace in your lawn. The small holes left on the soil after aeration will allow the weed killer to penetrate deep into the ground, thus increasing the effectiveness of these chemicals.

Watering Schedule

I know you’ve probably watered your lawn before, but watering after aeration is a whole different ball game.

Normal watering usually entails thoroughly watering the lawn for about 45 minutes; after aeration, you should water the lawn lightly for about 20 minutes.

This prevents water buildup in the holes left after aeration, reducing the risk of fungal and bacterial infections on your grass.

Water the lawn after overseeding and fertilizing. This will not only encourage the growth of the new seeds but it will also aid the absorption of fertilizer by the existing grass. 

Additionally, this can help you adjust your watering schedule. This is crucial for busy lawns with high foot traffic, which compacts the soil, making water absorption difficult. 

To Mow Or Not To Mow?

Mowing or not mowing your lawn after aeration has been an ongoing debate among gardeners for years. While some argue that mowing your lawn will help restore its beauty to some degree, some gardeners say that you should keep the mower far off your lawn after aeration. 

After extensive research, I have come to the conclusion that it’s never good to mow your lawn right after aeration. 

If you’re planning on aeration, the best time to mow your lawn is just before the aeration to ensure the grass is at the right size and one week after aeration after the grass has grown to a certain height. 

If you have grown new seeds, then wait for about four weeks before using the lawnmower. 

Let Your Lawn Rest

Once you have aerated your lawn, you have to let it rest and recover. This is why it’s important to avoid mowing it for a while. Ideally, the best time to mow your lawn is once it grows to about 3.5 inches tall. Alternatively, you can mow the grass one week after aeration. 

You should also avoid walking on freshly aerated lawn, which can cause the soil to become stacked up together and make it compact again. This will be a zero-sum game since aeration is meant to reduce soil compactness. 

Understanding Lawn Aeration

As previously stated, lawn aeration is the process of reducing the compactness of the soil by poking holes in the soil to allow air circulation. This also aids in water and nutrients intake. 

It’s one of the most important steps in lawn maintenance and landscaping, especially if you have a tick thatch that completely covers the topsoil. 

Thatch is a layer of organic matter that is over the lawn, such as grass clippings or leaves. Thatch isn’t always bad for the lawn; in some cases, it acts as a good insulator against extreme temperatures and helps with moisture retention.

However, when the thatch is thicker than 1 inch, it can lead to more cons than pros in your garden. It could contribute to excessive water buildup in the soil and reduce air circulation; this, in turn, suffocates your lawn. 

An excessively thick thatch could also make your lawn susceptible to pests and diseases, which may attack and destroy the grass.  

You can follow two routes when you want to aerate your lawn: You can get lawn maintenance services or rent a machine and handle the aeration yourself.

For a small lawn, you can try “spiking.” This is an aeration method where you poke small holes in your soil. It’s an effective method, but it won’t work well in cases of large thatch buildup.

You should dethatch your lawn before doing core aeration to ensure the holes reach deep within the soil, improving the effectiveness.

Dethatching vs. Aeration 

As the name suggests, dethatching removes the thatch that has formed over the soil and prevents your grass from absorbing key nutrients. If your lawn has excessive thatch buildup, you must dethatch before aeration. 

Dethatching is important because it allows the aerator machine to penetrate the soil deeply, improving the airflow and nutrient uptake.

If you perform the aeration with thatch on the topsoil, the aerator will primarily focus on first breaking down the thatch before penetrating the soil. If the thatch is only a thin layer, then you don’t need to dethatch before aeration.

Both dethatching and aeration help get rid of a thin lawn and boost the growth of grass. 

Benefits of Lawn Aeration

It isn’t called “aeration,” just for the sake of it! Aeration helps improve the airflow in your lawn’s soil. 

If your lawn is used to being stepped on or if you get high foot traffic, then the soil in your lawn can become easily compacted. Car traffic worsens compactness; you might as well forego the whole lawn-growing process!

The grass roots need sufficient oxygen to grow robustly and develop a vibrant, healthy lawn. Clay soils are usually heavy and compact, so aeration is even more important if your lawn is made of clay soil. 

Once you have aerated your soil, you’ll have the chance to overseed and make the lawn become even thicker. With several evenly spread holes in the soil, the lawn is now perfect for new seeds to grow and better root system development.

Once you have aerated your soil, fertilizers and weed control treatments won’t run off as quickly as they normally would since they now get deep into the soil. 

While aeration may seem like a lot of work, the benefits are totally worth it. You may not see the benefits immediately, but trust me, the grass will be greener on your side of the fence once the effects of aeration have manifested.

How to Aerate a Lawn 

Before aeration, there are several things you should take into account:

• First, you must ensure that aeration is needed to rejuvenate your lawn (check on the signs that your lawn really needs aeration).

• Next, you have to figure out the best time to aerate your lawn; different types of grass will have different periods where aeration can have the best effects.

• Lastly, you have to decide whether you want to undertake the aeration process yourself or you want to hire a lawn maintenance service to do it.

Here are the signs that you should watch out for to determine if your lawn needs aeration.

Signs that Your Lawn Needs Aeration

Aeration isn’t an essential step in a lawn care guide, so you may need to familiarize yourself with the process. Still, there are some lawns that could greatly benefit from the process.

This process is especially beneficial if you have a heavy soil type like clay. Such soils become compacted easily when high traffic levels are on them all day.

Foot traffic and car traffic can increase the compactness of your soil.

Other than soil compactness, thatch buildup is another obvious sign that your soil needs aeration. If you notice the thatch layer in your lawn getting bigger by over one inch, then it’s time for dethatching and aeration. 

If you’re unsure about the right aeration time, you can perform a soil test. Dig out about 6 inches deep of your lawn, then examine the roots of the grass. If the roots are barely spread two inches apart, then your soil is too compact, and you must aerate it as quickly as possible.

If digging is too tiresome for you, you can perform the soil test using a screwdriver. Loosen up the soil by watering it a day before testing.

On the following day, push a screwdriver into the ground. If it easily penetrates 2-4 inches, your soil doesn’t need aeration. If it doesn’t, then you need to aerate it. Test the lawn on different spots just to be sure.

Pro tip: Avoid aerating the soil the first year after planting new sods or after installing a new lawn.

When to Aerate Your Lawn

If you want to aerate your lawn, I recommend doing it during the growing season. This way, the lawn has enough time to recover. However, this greatly depends on the type of grass you have grown. 

If you grow a cool-season grass variety, then you should aerate it in early fall. If you are growing a warm-season grass variety, then you should aerate it in early spring or summer.

If your lawn experiences low traffic throughout the year, then aeration can be done every 2-3 years unless the thatch gets thicker. In such cases, renting an aerator is much more economical than buying one to use it once every couple of years.

Aerating annually is essential for good lawn health for a lawn that gets high traffic most of the time.

Aeration in Early Spring Or Summer

Warm-season grasses will thrive when aerated during this period. You can either aerate the lawn in late May or early June. Remember your lawn should be aerated before applying pesticides or seeding, not after.

Here are some varieties of warm-season grasses that you can try:

• Bahiagrass Argentine

• Centipede

• Bermuda grass

• Floratam St.Augustine

Spring is one of the best times to apply pre-emergent weed killer, so you’ll still have something to do after aerating the lawn. Lawns that have had a lot of trouble with weeds could benefit from this process. 

Alternatively, you can overseed and apply fertilizer if you want to replenish uncovered spots. However, avoid using weed killers if you overseed.

Early Fall Aeration 

The best time to aerate cool-season grass is during fall, from late August through September.

This period is ideal because your grass is actively growing, so it’ll likely recover from being poked numerous times during the aeration process.

Here are some cool-season grasses to try:

• Ryegrass 

• Bentgrass

• Bluegrass

• Tall fescue

• Fine Fescue

• Creeping Red Fescue

Overseeding is possible even after aerating the grass in early fall. Just be sure to avoid using any weed killer.

What to Do Before Aeration

The most important step before beginning aeration is mowing your lawn. Short grass makes the aeration process much easier. Next, you should thoroughly water your lawn a day or two before the aeration day.

Watering is done to soften the soil, which allows the aerator to penetrate the ground easily. If your soil is dry and stiff, aeration can be significantly difficult and ineffective. 

Next, you have to mark the obstacles in your lawn that the aerator may accidentally run over. This includes objects such as sprinklers and, generally, any important object in the lawn. 

You should also remove anything that may damage the aerator, such as large pebbles, and clear the lawn from dirt.

Aerate the lawn in both directions. It’s recommended to have about 20 to 40 holes per square foot for the best results.

You should avoid aerating the lawn when it’s extremely wet or after heavy rains as the mud could stick to the tines, causing an even messier scene, not to mention making the aerator ineffective.

How to Aerate Your Lawn 

Whether you want to do it yourself or hire a professional is entirely up to you. I always prefer to do the work myself since my lawn is small, and I get to learn each time. It’s hard work, but it’s totally worth it!

However, you should be warned: A large lawn will be significantly more difficult and tiresome to aerate if you are doing it yourself. 

The advantage of lawn maintenance services is that they offer a lot of options on how to aerate the lawn. They’ll analyze the lawn and the soil type and give you the best advice on how you should go about the process. 

If you’re considering taking on the project yourself, here are some equipment options for you:

• Slicing aerator: this type of aerator contains sharp blades that slice the soil in a rotating motion, making pathways or incisions in the soil that allow for easy air, water, and nutrient flow. Slicing aerators can penetrate through grass and thatch.

• Spike aerators: these aerators contain spike-like tines that make small holes in the soil. Spike aerator sandals are the best example of spike aerators, but they are only suitable for small lawns. The main downside of using this type of aerator is that the machine can press the soil around the holes, making it more compact.

• Core or plug aerator: One of the most efficient aerators to use, especially if you plan on overseeding. They remove small plugs of soil from the lawn, making holes that are about three inches deep, creating the perfect holes for overseeding. It also improves the ease of access to fertilizers and herbicides in the solid and improves airflow. Professionals mostly use the core or plug aerator. 

Commonly Asked Questions

1. Can you walk on the lawn after aeration?

No, avoid walking on your lawn after aeration; remember, exerting too much pressure on the lawn leads to soil compactness. After aerating, your lawn is fragile, and walking on it could do it more harm, especially if you have just sewed new grass seeds. 

Wait for about a month before walking on your lawn. By this time, the lawn should have fully recovered. 

2. What is the difference between core aeration and plug aeration?

They may seem significantly different, but the two methods have no major differences in terms of the aeration process.

Plug aeration and core aeration refer to the same thing; the terms are used interchangeably. 

The two types of aeration that differ from each other are spike aeration and core aeration, based on the methods used and performance. 

3. How long does it take for grass to recover from aeration?

Depending on your lawn care routine and the grass type, your lawn recovery period may vary. Generally, your grass should recover after about four weeks after aeration. If you start walking and mowing your grass immediately or a few days after aeration, then it’ll take longer to recover.

4. How long should you wait before seeding an aerated lawn?

You don’t have to wait for long before overseeding an aerated lawn. Seed the lawn within 48 hours after aeration. 

Fertilizer and weed treatments or herbicides should be applied immediately after aerating the lawn or in a matter of days.

Summing Up 

Not only do you have to mow, water, and fertilize your lawn, but now you have to aerate it! 

Taking care of your lawn is a continuous and never-ending process. It may be tiring and require saint-like dedication, but it’s worth the struggle. There is no better feeling than relaxing on your lawn after a hot summer day or watching the flowers bloom and add even more beauty to your outdoors during spring.

If your soil is compact or has recently experienced an unusual amount of traffic, and your thatch is growing thick, then it may be time to aerate it. You can either do it yourself or get a professional to help.

There is so much to do with your lawn after aerating, so the numerous holes left in the soil should not scare you. Follow the options we’ve provided above to get the most out of the aeration process!

You’ve probably never heard of Salvia before, but I’m pretty sure you’re familiar with sage. These plants are one of the most common plants grown in gardens, and it’s simply because they are hardy.

It might come as a surprise to many, but Salvias also have particular issues that they encounter during their life cycle.

Fortunately, Salvias don’t have many problems, and most of them are usually related to inadequate conditions. These issues are relatively easy to care for, so there’s no need to worry about them.

In this article, we’ll look at the most common problems that Salvia plants face and discuss various ways you can help your plant recover and return to its full potential.

But first, have a look at some general information regarding Salvias:

Let’s get right into it!

Issues With Salvias

The genus Salvia comprises various plant species, with perennial Salvias being the ones mostly known as sage.

Salvias are known for their majestic blooms, and people primarily use them in numerous culinary activities. However, to experience the benefits of full-grown, happy, and healthy Salvias, you must familiarize yourself with the issues you may encounter with these plants.

Some common problems that affect Salvia species include root rot, yellow leaves, brown leaf tips, pest infestation, legginess, flopping, and powdery mildew.

The following section will take a deeper look into these problems and highlight ways you can solve them.

Flopping

A healthy Salvia should stand upright, but if you don’t meet its requirements, it can exhibit flopping.

Two main things cause flopping in Salvias: overwatering and overfertilization. As mentioned earlier, some Salvia species are hardy plants, meaning they are prone to overwatering, particularly during the winter months.

Still, even with the correct watering schedule, you should keep in mind that frequent rainfall can lead to water accumulation in the soil and cause flopping. Salvia microphylla are some of the cultivars which are most prone to flopping.

Overfertilization is another leading cause of flopping in Salvia plants. Nitrogen is essential for blooming, but excess nitrogen in the soil can cause issues.

Salvias aren’t heavy feeders, and feeding them with too much nitrogen will limit the production of their beautiful purple flowers; you might not get any flowers at all!

Dealing with Flopping

If the cause of flopping in your Salvia plant is overwatering, you’ll need to change your watering techniques and schedule and also inspect the soil. Having a perfect watering schedule may not be enough; your soil also needs to be well-drained. Otherwise, these issues will reoccur sooner or later.

Salvia plants require roughly an inch of water every 7 – 10 days. You’ll need to water your Salvias if rainfall isn’t frequent where you live.

Your Salvias will also need porous and well-draining soil. This will help your plants tolerate frequent rainfall better, and you’ll also avoid overwatering.

Adding a layer of mulch is an excellent way of improving loose soil and soil without water retention capabilities. Additionally, you can use an all-purpose plant fertilizer diluted to half strength to feed your Salvias in early spring.

Bear in mind that Salvias detest mushroom compost, so be cautious if using compost.

You can promote blooming and new growth for your Salvias through deadheading.

Powdery Mildew

If you are a plant enthusiast, you’ve probably had a plant with this disease without even noticing it. Powdery mildew is readily identifiable and considered one of the most pervasive plant diseases.

So, how will you know your Salvia is infected with powdery mildew? The answer: the leaves. The plant’s foliage will exhibit grayish-white blotches or spots with a white mold on its surface.

Some plants have become resistant to powdery mildew; however, Salvias aren’t one of them.

Powdery mildew isn’t a deadly disease, at least for Salvia species. Still, the disease is capable of rapidly spreading among your plants and will leave you with a garden full of diseased plants in no time.

For sage plants, powdery mildew causes stunted growth and, in most cases, inhibits blooming.

The fungi that cause powdery mildew flourish in humid environments with excess soil moisture, providing a suitable habitat for them to survive.

Dealing with Powdery Mildew

Once your Salvia has been infected with powdery mildew, the first thing you need to do is check the conditions.

Good air circulation is a critical factor for the healthy growth of Salvia plants. Therefore, you should pay close attention to spacing if you intend to grow Salvias.

In most cases, powdery mildew requires treatment with fungicides. It would be best to use sulfur-based organic fungicides, but strictly adhere to the dosage requirements!

If the damage is severe, you’ll probably have to cut off the diseased Salvia leaves.

Sterilize your tool of choice when removing diseased leaves as well as after usage.

Remember to dispose of any damaged leaves and never compost them; putting them in your compost will help the fungi to spread, and you’ll be back to square one.

Legginess

Inconsistent watering is the leading cause of legginess in Salvias. Your plants will look lifeless if you don’t provide adequate water.

Even though Salvias are drought-tolerant, they can’t grow without water.

Lack of sufficient water isn’t the only cause of legginess in Salvias; lack of sunlight is another reason for a leggy Salvia.

Your sage plant won’t produce flowers mid-summer if it lacks light (this applies to all USDA growing zones where sage plants are grown).

You’ll notice legginess in your Salvias once they spread out and get more sunshine.

Dealing with Legginess

You need to provide your sage plants with a good soak if they become leggy due to lack of water. Continue watering your plants during dry spells with at least an inch of water weekly.

Consequently, if your sage plants don’t receive adequate sunlight, you need to increase sun exposure. Replanting your sage plants is probably the best way to achieve this so that your plants can receive at least 6 hours of full sun. You should grow these plants in partial shade for the rest of the day.

If some issues occur after planting, don’t fret; your Salvias are trying to adapt to a new substrate. Carefully observe your soil conditions. We recommend well-drained soil to prevent excess water from remaining in the soil and reduce the risk of fungal infections.

Pest Infestation

Japanese beetles, whiteflies, spider mites, and aphids are some of the most common pests that attack sage plants.

Spider mites love devouring the sap from sage plants’ leaves. Leaf discoloration is one of the main symptoms of a plant with a spider mite infestation.

Your plant’s leaves will display tiny white spots, which will become more prominent and brownish if you leave them untreated. Spider mites may also reside in the soil, so pay close attention to your growing medium to avoid other significant problems.

Aphids are tiny, round-shaped, greenish pests that are typically challenging to spot. These annoying little critters feed on Salvia leaves. Inspect the undersides of your plant’s leaves if you notice fewer flowers and stunted growth; aphids usually hide in such areas.

Whiteflies, like spider mites, feed on the sap from sage leaves. Your Salvia won’t grow fast enough if the infestation is severe, and you won’t see many flowers.

Japanese beetles also eat the leaves of Salvia plants, leaving holes in them.

Dealing with Pest Infestation

Even though applying insecticide to your plants to deal with pests may seem like the most ideal and simple solution, it should actually be your last resort.

Chemical solutions can harm or deter pollinators when you use them to eliminate pests.

You can apply insecticidal soap during flowering to control pests. Neem oil is another ideal choice if the pest infestation isn’t severe.

Companion planting is the most common way to deal with pest infestations in your garden. Celosia plants and Salvias are great companion plants since they attract pollinators.

Brown Leaf Tips

via thegrovecountrygardens

Brown leaf tips in your sage plants normally indicate stress in your plants. For instance, your sage plants may become stressed if you take them indoors to overwinter or change their spot in the garden.

It would be best to take quick action once you notice your sage plant leaf tips turning brown because once the brown color covers the entire leaf surface, you might be unable to save it.

Your stems may also turn brown! Once you notice this, reduce watering since excessive watering can cause rotting.

Dealing with Brown Leaf Tips

Provide your sage plants with the right conditions until they fully adapt if they’re stressed.

Also, ensure your sage plants receive an inch of water per week as well as adequate sunlight.

Cut the leaves of your sage plant using a sterilized pair of pruners if they all turn brown. Keep in mind that these leaves are dead already, so trying to revitalize them is futile.

Botrytis Blight

Some indicators of Botrytis blight in your sage plant are gray mold on the leaf surface and dark lesions on the leaves.

The fungus responsible for Botrytis blight flourishes in overly wet soil, cold temperatures, and high humidity. Similar to powdery mildew, this disease loves poor circulation, so spacing your plants inappropriately may also contribute to fungal growth.

Dealing with Botrytis Blight

You need to remove the affected leaves and adjust the conditions if your plant suffers from Botrytis blight.

Pay close attention to spacing before planting your Salvias; 12 inches between each plant will be enough.

If the damage is severe, you must dispose of your sage. Inspect other plants in your garden to see if they’ve also been affected, and never add the diseased plants to your compost pile.

The key here is disinfection; fungi can easily transfer through unsterilized tools. Keep in mind that this fungus can survive winter, so it’s critical to get rid of it ASAP.

Root Rot

Sage plants are prone to root rot, which is a result of water accumulation in the soil.

Some indicators of root rot in Salvias include wilting, stunted growth, browning, and yellowing.

Most people associate wilting with a lack of moisture in plants, but you should check for root rot once you notice this in your sage plants. Believe me, the last thing you want is to water a Gentian sage suffering from root rot.

Dealing with Root Rot

Take your sage plant out of its planting container if it has root rot. Search for dark and mushy roots when inspecting the root system since such roots are the ones that are infected. Discarding your plant is probably the best solution if you find all the roots looking as such.

Suppose you notice some grayish-white and firm roots. Carefully cut off each affected root using some sterilized pruners. We also recommend applying fungicide to healthy Salvia roots to prevent root rot from spreading.

Always dispose of the old soil; using it for other plants increases the risk of them getting infected, too.

Dealing with Root Rot

Take your sage plant out of its planting container if it has root rot. Search for dark and mushy roots when inspecting the root system since such roots are the ones that are infected. Discarding your plant is probably the best solution if you find all the roots looking as such.

Suppose you notice some grayish-white and firm roots. Carefully cut off each affected root using some sterilized pruners. We also recommend applying fungicide to healthy Salvia roots to prevent root rot from spreading.

Always dispose of the old soil; using it for other plants increases the risk of them getting infected, too.

Summing Up

Salvias are the go-to plants to add a pretty view to your garden. Sage plants begin their flowering season in mid-summer and continue blooming throughout fall.

The plants live up to their reputation of being hard to kill, but similar to all other hardy plants, sage plants aren’t entirely problem-free.

We have discussed some common problems you may experience when growing Salvias, as well as some effective ways you can deal with these issues. 

So, if your Salvia doesn’t look happy and healthy and is suffering from the above-mentioned issues, don’t be alarmed; just follow our advice, and you’ll have a healthy-looking plant within no time!

See you next time, bye!

Blackberries are one of the most famous berry species. They’re used in making juices, jams, and fizzy drinks and are a key ingredient in apple crumble pie. 

What other way to ensure you have a consistent supply of this king of the berry world than growing them yourself? Trust me, it’s hard to go back once you have tasted the fruits of your labor (literally!). 

Growing these berries is an excellent idea, but before we dive deep into what we need to know about growing blackberries, there’s one question we must answer, “when do blackberries bloom?”

Blooming time is instrumental in ensuring you get the most out of your plant. In this article, we’ll answer this question and others such as blackberry growing stages, fruit production and harvesting. We’ll also provide plant care tips.

Before we get in too deep about blackberries, here is some basic information about these fruits:

When Do Blackberries Bloom?

There are a couple of factors that will affect the period that a blackberry will bloom. For example, different species will have different blooming periods, and the climatic conditions will impact blooming, too. 

In USDA zones 7 and above, where the climatic conditions are usually warmer, blackberry plants will bloom in mid-April and early May. On the other hand, in colder regions (below zone 7), blackberries will start blooming in late May. 

You can choose whether you want the early blooming or the late blooming variety based on the region in which you reside. 

One of the early blooming varieties is the Choctaw cultivar. This variety thrives in USDA zone 8 through 9. While Choctaw blooms early, it’s rather thorny, which may be off-putting to some gardeners.

There are also thornless varieties, such as the Navaho and Arapaho, but they bloom much later compared to the Choctaw. However, the Arapaho blooms approximately 11 days before the Navaho variety and is viewed as an early blooming variety compared to the former. 

When do Wild Blackberries Bloom?

Estimating the blooming time of domesticated blackberries is easy, but is the time the same as that of wild blackberries?

Wild blackberries start flowering in late spring, which will continue into early summer. The blooming period may sometimes run into August, especially in cooler weather. 

Like in domesticated types, there are different varieties of wild blackberries, each with a different blooming period. 

The Himalayan type starts blooming from June to August, while the Cutleaf blackberry will start flowering from July to August, so with this regard, the Himalayan type is the early blooming variety. 

When Do Blackberry Plants Bloom in the United States?

Blackberries will bloom early in the south as compared to northern regions.

In the south, blackberry bushes will begin blooming in early to mid or late March. As you move north to colder climates, the blooming time increases, and flowers may appear in late spring to early summer.

How Long Does It Take Blackberries To Bloom?

Once you plant blackberries, the first canes that sprout from the ground are primocanes, which don’t usually flower in the first year.

If you grow your blackberries in the fall, don’t be surprised when your plants develop flowers the following summer. It is, however, important to prune these flowers so that they don’t turn into fruits. This is because the plant at this stage has a weak rooting system, and fruiting at this stage will cause production to diminish in the future.

Over time, the primocanes will develop lateral branches and form lead buds before the dormant season begins. In the following growing season, these lateral branches will develop floricanes that bloom and bear fruit, leading to a large yield. 

Blackberries will flower in the second year. So, if you are growing these plants, you’ll need a bit of patience. 

Do Blackberries Bloom More Than Once?

fruit formation begins. After fruits have formed, the same place won’t produce another flower. 

On the upside, blackberries have perennial roots. This means you won’t have to replant the canes each season to enjoy these fruits. The part of the plant above the ground is biennial and will only last two years before dying. 

An ever-bearing blackberry variety also exists where flower and fruit formation continues on the older canes. Fruit formation on the newly sprouting canes will then begin in the fall. 

When Do Blackberries Produce Fruit?

After flowering, blackberries will take 45-60 days to produce fruit. But remember, pollination has to be successful before fruit formation begins.

Thankfully, blackberry bushes and vines are self-fertile. As such, you don’t need a male and female plant for pollination. 

Additionally, blackberries are a great attraction for pollinators, so once the flowers bloom, they’ll attract different pollinators to the flower, increasing the chances of fertilization and making it easier. Other plants in the garden can also benefit from these pollinators. 

The blackberry fruiting season will last from mid to late summer (from July to September). The good thing is that the period lasts long. You can pick berries 2-3 weeks before fruit production stops on the plant. 

Like raspberries, blackberries have seeds, so before consuming them, be prepared to manage with these tiny seeds under your teeth. 

The advancement of science and research has made some commercial growers produce blackberries with very tiny seeds you can hardly feel!

Harvesting Blackberries 

Harvesting your fruits may seem like a pretty straightforward activity. After all, it’s just removing the fruit from the plant. But how exactly do you pick the blackberries without interfering with either the fruit or plant?

The first thing you need to know is that the fruit of this plant won’t ripen further once it has been picked, so you should be absolutely sure your blackberries are ready for picking.

One common mistake is assuming that once the berries turn black, they have ripened and are ready for picking, but this is far from the truth. 

Such berries aren’t completely ripe yet, and consuming them will leave you with a bitter taste.

Pro tip: Once the strawberry turns black, wait 3-4 days before picking them for the sweetest taste. 

The best time for harvesting your berries, or any fruit and vegetable, is early morning. This way, the berries are freshest since the plant hasn’t lost water due to high heat levels. 

If picking the fruits early in the morning isn’t possible, you can also do it in the evening once the plants have recovered from the hot midday heat.

Storing Blackberries 

After picking your fruits and probably having your fill of them, you’ll be left wondering, “What do I do with all this produce?”

Well, you can store some for future use. Who knows, maybe you may get interested in baking pies or blending juice!

Blackberries can last for about a day when left in the open air. To increase the shelf life even further, you can wash and refrigerate them. This way they can last for about 2-3 days.

Of course, the best way to store them long-term for future use is to freeze them and thaw them only when you’re ready to eat or use some. 

One of my favorite things to do when I have enough blackberries is make blackberry jam. I use a fairly simple recipe that you can try.

Simply mash some blackberries in a bowl and cook them in a pan on low heat. Then add some sugar and lemon juice. Stir the pan such that all the sugar dissolves, and let the mixture boil for about 20 minutes, and there you have it! Your homemade blackberry jam!

Depending on the amount of blackberries you use, you may need to boil the mixture for a longer period. 

How To Plant And Grow Blackberries 

Before planting blackberries, you first have to decide on the variety you’ll grow. There are thorn or thornless varieties, erect, semi-erect, and trailing blackberries. 

One of the most popular blackberries ideal for eating raw or baking cakes is the Triple Crown Cultivar, a semi-erect and thornless variety.

The Prime-Ark Freedom cultivar is the perfect choice if you prefer an erect and thornless variety. 

You can try a trailing variety such as the Pacific blackberry to add even more variety to your garden. Even though it has the tiniest of fruits among the three, they are equally as delicious.

When choosing a variety, consider the climatic conditions of your area or the USDA zone since not all varieties can handle harsh cold climates.

How to Plant Blackberries

The trailing and semi-erect blackberry varieties require some support as they grow, while the erect varieties can grow without such support. Place some trellises on the soil if your variety needs support. 

Another important thing to take note of is the spacing and location of the brambles. Blackberry plants need to be well-spaced so they can grow and spread easily. They also need plenty of sunlight, which helps sweeten the fruits.

As for the soil, blackberries thrive in fertile and well-drained soils. If you have heavy garden soil, you should amend it with some compost or use a raised bed to grow the plants. Soil amendment should be done in the summer or fall before planting the crops. Ideally, the soil’s pH level should be between 5.5 and 6.5; otherwise, the plants may struggle to absorb nutrients.

Once you have prepared the ideal place to grow your blackberries, it’s time to start planting. This should be done either in early spring or fall. The temperatures are cooler at this time, and the plants are less likely to suffer from transplant shock.

When planting, ensure the entire root system is under the soil and sufficiently water the plants after planting.

To prevent excessive water loss and weeds from festering, mulch the plants with either wood chips, black plastic, or pine straw.

Overview of the Care Guide

While we’ve already examined the most important aspects of growing blackberries, such as using the right soil type and ensuring exposure to sunlight, there are some other aspects that you need to consider in order to increase yield and ensure the best health for your plants.

First, blackberries need about 1-2 inches of water weekly to thrive. You can do this by irrigating your plants twice a week during the growing season. During the harvesting season, you should double this amount to increase the sweetness and juiciness of your fruits.

The best USDA zones where blackberries thrive are between USDA zones 7-9. Here, the winters aren’t too harsh, which is good for blackberries. However, some varieties can survive even in harsh winters. It would be best to conduct some research before planting to understand what your variety needs. For the best result, blackberries will need about 300 hours of chilling hours below 45 ℉.

Another important factor to pay attention to is fertilization. You can opt for organic fertilizers, compost, or manure if you want organic fruits or use balanced slow-releasing fertilizers. The best time to fertilize your plants is in early spring during the growing season. 

Pruning is another crucial part of the blackberry care guide. Pruned plants have a higher yield as compared to unpruned ones. Use some shears or secateurs for this, but sterilize them first so as not to infect the plant. 

To encourage lateral branching on the plant, cut the primocane at a 45° angle once it reaches a height of 3 – 4 feet. After harvesting the fruits, you should also cut the floricanes as they can’t fruit again. 

Commonly Asked Questions 

Blackberries are some of the most popular fruits, so it’s only fair if you know as much as you can about them before growing them.

This section discusses some of the most common questions our readers have raised about blackberries. 

What are the most common blackberry varieties?

There are many varieties of blackberries, but the most grown types include the thornless Apache, Arapaho, Navaho, and the triple crown cultivars. 

Thorny varieties include the Prime-Ark and Kiowa varieties that have large, irresistible fruits. 

What are the benefits of blackberries?

As with most fruits, blackberries have a lot of benefits, including an abundance of vitamins C and K, a source of manganese and fiber, and they can also help the skin heal and regenerate faster. Blackberries also help reduce cholesterol, regulate blood sugar, and boost the immune system.

Did you know blackberries can help fight tooth cavities and gum diseases? Well, now you do. Blackberries have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that help solve these issues. 

Summing Up 

Nothing is more exciting to a farmer than enjoying the fruits of your labor, and when your blackberries bloom, you’re just about halfway there.

There are several factors that may impact the blooming time of blackberries, such as the weather, the variety you have grown, and the proper care guide. All these factors need to be taken into account to determine when your plants will bloom. 

However, the plants will flower in late spring or early summer depending on the factors. 

With our tips, you now know more about flowering and fruit formation in blackberries. We’ve also provided some tips on harvesting and storing blackberries and properly taking care of the plants to have the best yield. 

So try your hand at growing blackberries, and with a little patience, you’ll enjoy these fantastic fruits.

Spiders in your house may be easy to deal with, but once they get to your garden, they may cause extensive damage to your plants and even the soil.

As a gardener, it’s expected that you may run into challenges while gardening your plants; spiders are one problem that may cause a headache.

While spider mites aren’t dangerous to humans, the speed of their spread makes them really hard to deal with. And to eradicate them from your garden, you must handle the arachnids and their eggs. 

In this article, we’ll help you understand more about spider infestation, how to get rid of them, and how to prevent them from infesting your garden. 

Presence of Spider Eggs in Plant Soil

You may be in for a rude awakening once you notice spider eggs in plant soil. While adult spider mites may be easy to deal with, once the eggs hatch, you’ll have over 2,500 tiny mites. 

This may cause severe problems to the plants in your garden, and if not dealt with quickly, the condition could spread to the entire garden.

What Do Spider Eggs Look Like?

Spiders lay tiny, white, or bright-colored eggs that resemble a sphere. The eggs are enclosed in a silk sac, usually smaller than a quarter. 

Signs of Spider Eggs in Plant Soil

Determining whether you have spider eggs in your soil can be challenging since knowing what is happening below the soil is difficult. But there are a few signs you can watch out for to determine if your soil has been compromised.

Signs such as tiny brown or yellow spots on plant leaves, webbing, yellowing of the leaves, and stunted growth if the infestation is severe should all raise concerns.

Where Do Spider Mites Come From?

What’s even more annoying about these pests is that they can come from anywhere.

Spider mite infestation happens quickly. So, buying a plant with a few spiders or growing it in potting soil with spider eggs makes it easy to get a spider mite infestation. 

Once you buy a plant, sterilize the pot before repotting it. If you are growing your house plant outdoors, it may have a couple of spider mites by the time you bring it back indoors, which could also lead to infestation. 

One of the key problems with spider eggs is that they’re hardly visible to the naked eye, and you’ll only notice them once the population has drastically increased. 

Spider Eggs Life Cycle

Spider eggs hatch pretty fast, and this makes them easy to spread. Here is the life cycle of spiders.

Stage 1: Egg

Spider mites lay their eggs in the soil. One spider adult may lay about 100 eggs, and they’ll hatch after three weeks.

The fertilized eggs become female spider mites, and unfertilized eggs become male spider mites. On average, the ratio of unfertilized eggs to fertilized ones is 3 to 1.

Stage 2: Larvae

Once the eggs hatch, the larvae begin feeding as soon as they hatch. When the larvae are in your garden, they feed on the plant cells and sap on the plants. After they hatch, nymphs are initially colorless, and as they feed on the plant cells, they begin developing color, exhibited by two black spots. 

Stage 3: Protonymph 

At the larvae stage, the 6-legged larvae is inactive until it develops into an 8-legged protonymph. You’ll start noticing webbing at this stage. 

Stage 4: Deutonymph 

The fourth stage is the deutonymph. Once the protonymph has had enough food, it hibernates or takes a rest. Gradually, the protonymph changes to a deutonymph by going through the molting process. At this stage, the webbing process is also present.

Stage 5: Adult 

After the 4th stage, the deutonymph feeds, rests again and goes through molting to become an adult. The spider has completed the cycle, and the process can begin again. The only way to end the cycle is to act fast.

Spiders have a life cycle of about two weeks. In warmer areas, the life cycle may take as short as 7 to 10 days. Many people wonder if spiders die after laying eggs, but this is not the case; female spiders don’t die after reproduction.

How to Get Rid of Spider Eggs

There are several methods to eliminate spider eggs in your garden soil. You can try using neem oil, drying out the soil, horticultural oils, insecticidal soap, hydrogen peroxide, imidacloprid, or rubbing alcohol. 

Once you spot any signs of spider mite infestation, it’s imperative that you act immediately. The best way to stay ahead of the curve is to inspect your plants frequently. You may notice signs such as webbing on the plant or a change in your plant’s leaves, which may indicate the spider mites are about to lay eggs. 

When choosing a solution to get rid of your spider mites, you can opt for either chemical or natural solutions to handle the problem. You can also adjust the conditions of your home to minimize the chances of the eggs surviving.

Neem Oil 

This is one of gardeners’ oldest techniques to get rid of spider mites and other pests such as aphids, thrips, and fungus gnats in their plants. 

Pests feed on plant tissues and roots, so opting for organic methods such as neem oil effectively eliminates the pests without damaging the plant tissues. 

Wondering how neem oil works? The process is a bit torturous, but not to worry; this only affects the pests. Here is how it works. Neem oil contains a toxic component called Azadirachtin. This compound affects the minds of pests such as spider mites and impairs their eating ability and even that of multiplying. Conversely, eggs cannot move to the larvae stage, and they eventually die. By doing this, the neem oil destroys the entire colony of the pests. 

Some plant growers complain that neem oil is ineffective in dealing with spider mites. However, to achieve any results with neem oil, you must apply it correctly; otherwise, it won’t be effective, and the infestation will only spread. 

Apply neem oil to your plants before the infestation spreads for the best results. This oil will handle the existing pests and act as a preventative measure against future attacks. Apply neem oil to your plants twice a month. 

You should apply the oil either in the early morning or late evening hours. Applying it when the sun is hot and high temperatures could burn the plant.

Dry Out the Soil

This is another effective way to get rid of spider mites naturally. This method works by allowing the soil to dry out completely.

Spider mites thrive in wet soil, making it the perfect breeding place for them. By drying out the soil, you prevent the soil from hatching and causing an infestation.

However, it’s important to note that soil drying only works if the growing plants can tolerate dry soil. Plants that prefer wet or moisturized soils may be adversely affected by this method, and the same goes for plants that thrive in saturated soils. 

Soil drying can also disrupt or stop other pests’ lifecycles, such as springtails or millipedes. By destroying these creatures, you interfere with the food chain of spider mites since they feed on springtails and millipedes. 

Using Insecticidal Soaps or Horticultural Oils

Even though natural solutions are preferable to chemicals, sometimes chemical solutions are the best option to handle an infestation. In this case, you should opt for an insecticide specifically made for spider mites. 

These chemicals will be effective in clearing away the pest, and they won’t deal any damage to the soil or plant. Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are the most effective insecticides for spider mites.

Insecticides will work best in clearing adult spider mites, so reserve some for the eggs and the other stages before adulthood. 

Here is how to apply it: Mix one teaspoon of mild insecticidal soap with a liter of water and spray it over the leaves using a spray bottle. 

Hydrogen Peroxide

This bleach has several uses, and killing spider mites and spider mites eggs is one of them.

Hydrogen peroxides help deal with spider mites by changing the soil’s acidity, which in turn kills the spider mites. As the chemical fizzes, it also causes the eggs and larvae to die. 

While it may be tempting, especially when you have a severe infestation, never apply hydrogen peroxide directly to the soil. Always dilute it with some water. 

Add 3% hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle, fill it with water, then spray it on the potting soil. 

To clear all the mites, you’ll have to repeat the process severally until you destroy all eggs and all spider mites are gone. Once this happens, you’ll notice improvements in your plants.

For the severely affected parts, use a sterilized tool to prune them away.

Rubbing Alcohol

Not just spider bites, rubbing alcohol can also ward off other pests like aphids and thrips. Having it around your home can quickly help solve an infestation in your house plants without needing other alternative methods. 

One of the things that makes rubbing alcohol an effective solution to pests is its ease of use. This method also has an excellent killing rate. Simply dip a paper towel or cotton bud in some rubbing alcohol and gently rub it on the plant’s leaves.

As for the soil, mix one part rubbing alcohol and three parts water in a spray table. Shake the mixture and spray it over the soil. It’s essential to use a balanced solution for this process. If the concentration of rubbing alcohol is too high, it may scorch the plants or cause extensive damage to the soil. On the other hand, it won’t be effective if it’s too low. 

Drunk spiders (actually dead!) stand no chance against your plants.

Imidacloprid 

This chemical compound has proved to be effective at eliminating spider eggs. 

There are many effective insecticides containing this element that you can use, including granular, crystallized, and liquid. The best option for handling spider mites is either crystallized or granular. When using these versions, you’ll need to apply the insecticide on the soil and then pour some water on the granules or crystals. This way, the water activates the imidacloprid compound in the poison. 

Alternatively, you can try a systemic pesticide containing imidacloprid. This combination gives you a double advantage; it’ll kill the spider mites in the soil and those on the plant leaves. 

While there are a lot of cons with spider mites, one pro is that they don’t linger on the plant for long, and if they do, imidacloprid will kill them. The compound will also end the infestation of your plant by other pests on it. 

Ensure you follow the instructions on how to use this compound. If you don’t, your plants may die. 

Insect Poison 

If all the above methods prove ineffective, you can always try insect poison to end the spider mites menace in your garden. You can use many insect poisons to kill spider mites and eggs. When applied to the egg sac or the web, the poison separates the materials and kills the insects. 

Add some poison in a 32 oz shower bottle and spray any spots where you see spider webs, egg sacs, and insects. A 32 oz bottle can cover about 200-300 square feet. Poison is highly effective; once the insect comes into contact with the mixture, it’ll instantly die. 

Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis 

If all the signs point to a spider mite infestation, you can try the Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis. This is a bacteria that you can find in the soil. 

As commonly known, the BTI bacteria solve the infestation problem by attacking the larvae rather than the eggs. This way, the larvae never reach adulthood, and you deal with the infestation in a few weeks. 

Always dilute the treatment with enough water to avoid damaging your plants’ roots. You should apply the solution to the soil.

DIY Versions 

Sometimes, it may be impossible to access or purchase pesticides and insecticides due to different reasons such as costs or inaccessibility. Fortunately, you can try some DIY methods to solve this problem.

One of the most practical DIY methods is using Castille soap. This soap contains compounds and fatty acids that dehydrate and choke the spiders, and they eventually die off. 

One good thing about DIY methods is they are straightforward. In this method, you only need to mix 1 tsp of liquid soap with some lukewarm water. Then, fill a spray bottle with the mixture and spray it all over your plant. 

Castile soap can be used for the entire plant. The application is similar to that of rubbing alcohol. Dip a sponge in the soap mixture and rub it until the whole plant is soaked. Repeat this process on the plant several times until you notice signs of improvement. 

Using Castille soap to deal with spider mites has two advantages:

• It can kill other pests, such as mealybugs, aphids, thrips, and whiteflies.
• It is safe for children, pets, and pollinators. 

Another DIY method you can try is using Rosemary Oil. Like in the Castille soap method, you’ll have to mix it with lukewarm water and spray it on the soil. You can also add some cider vinegar to increase its effectiveness. 

Natural pesticides are highly advantageous as they don’t contaminate your plant or soil. It also makes them practical to use indoors since there’s less risk of contaminating the food or the area.

Natural Predators 

Spider mites can also be controlled naturally using natural predators who feed on the pests and clear them off your plant. 

Here are some natural predators you can use to deal with spider mites:

• Lady bugs
• Predatory mites
• Lacewings 

You only need this method to prepare the right environment to attract the insects. Reduce pesticide usage and the amount of mulch flowers and flower beds, as these insects don’t like such environments. 

Alternatively, you can purchase predatory insect species in the market. Like DIY methods, using predators is safe for humans and pets.

How to Prevent Pest Infestation in Your Houseplants

As the saying goes, prevention is better than cure, which also applies to plants. An infested plant can be highly demotivating as you put so much effort and time into caring for it.

How to control spider mites, gnats, mealybugs, and fungi?

• Always clean your plants regularly and dust them.
• If your plant has only been attacked by a few spider mites and they haven’t reproduced yet, you can wash them away with a stream of water. 
• Keep the watering consistent and the soil moist.
• Ensure your plant has the correct humidity levels by using a humidifier. 
• If you own an outdoor garden, you can grow different plants to discourage the infestation of pests, such as chrysanthemums and chives. 
• To avoid issues, separate old plants from the new ones.

Wrapping Up

Spiders are not only scary bugs indoors, but they can also be destructive if they infest your garden.

Even though identifying whether they have infested your soil is difficult (unless you are using a magnifying glass), there are many methods you can use to get rid of these pests.

It’s important to spot them early to reduce the damage they’ll deal to your plants. You can opt for either organic or inorganic methods, such as chemicals, to eliminate spiders and spider eggs.

If you need help handling the situation, contact pest control, and your problem will be gone soon!

Have you ever come across a picture of black strawberries and been enticed to taste some?

These berries’ exquisite shiny black color makes them almost bewitching in their beauty, but how come you have never seen them, even in the biggest grocery markets?

Well, do I have news for you? The existence of these fruits is more mythical than it is true. Want to know more about how these fruits came to be? Read on to find out more.

What Are Black Strawberries?

The truth is that black strawberries are usually a well-constructed scam by individuals online to sell a non-existent strawberry species to unsuspecting individuals. In short, these fruits don’t exist! 

In fact, the nearest thing to a black strawberry that really exists is purple strawberries, which can sometimes pass for black if the color is deep purple. The jet-black color of strawberries online is photoshopped images of normal strawberries.

The first black strawberry was seen online about 20 years ago and was created by John Robertson for photography. The artist used a raisin and black spray paint to create the berry, and even though it raised a lot of interest online, he admitted that the picture was fake. 

Many online scammers are preying on the interest of the public in these berries and even offering black strawberry seeds. Beware not to fall for such scams!

Black strawberries are only a figment of someone else’s imagination, so don’t be beguiled by online sellers who promise such fruits. While dark purple strawberries may resemble black strawberries, they aren’t related in any way to black strawberries. Even worse news is that blue strawberries don’t exist either! 

What do Black Strawberries Taste Like?

Strawberries have a sweet strawberry taste, which is sweet and slightly sour. The level of sweetness varies, with riper strawberries being sweeter. If black strawberries existed, I’d wager they’d taste the same. 

Since black strawberries don’t exist, it’s impossible to know what they taste like. Painted strawberries are unsafe to eat, so don’t get tempted to try them.

Why Are My Strawberries Black?

If your strawberries haven’t been colored and have a black color, it could be a sign of a fungal infection that causes the fruit to turn to this color.

Direct fungal infection will lead to strawberries developing black spots.

While fungal infections are common in strawberries, it’s difficult to detect the disease at an early stage since the infection either starts from the soil or the plant.

The primary cause of fungal infections in strawberries is excessive water or moisture. This causes the strawberry texture to change to a fragile, mushy texture, sometimes causing the fruit to be smelly.

Once the fungus reaches the strawberry fruit, the disease will spread to other berries in a short while, which may lead to widespread losses for gardeners. 

To prevent this from happening, you need to take measures to minimize the risk. When planting the strawberries, make sure the beds are well-spaced. This reduces the risk of the infection spreading to other beds if it does occur. 

Secondly, it’s important to ensure the strawberries are grown in well-drained soil. It’s also advisable to stalk the strawberries so that they don’t sit in the water or rain for too long and become waterlogged. 

To prevent the plant from becoming waterlogged, you can cover it with straw mulch.

Mulching your plants prevents them from being waterlogged, helps them maintain moisture and protects them from damage. Another effective way to prevent your strawberries from being attacked by fungus is growing them in a greenhouse. 

If, unfortunately, rotting has already started in your plants, the strawberries will turn brown and eventually black. Some berries may even develop a slime-like substance. Remove any affected berries from the plant and, if possible, isolate the plant from others. If the rotting persists, the best solution will be to use a fungicide. 

Other Colors of Strawberries

There are four primary colors of strawberries: white, yellow, red, and purple. The fruits are oval-looking with broad shoulders and narrow towards the bottom. The fruit’s flesh is dotted with achenes or seeds on the outside. Each variety has a different legend behind it.

Here is a closer look at these strawberry varieties.

White Strawberries

These strawberries belong to the Rosaceae family under the Fragaria genus. White strawberries have many varieties, including the Pineapple, Albicarpa, White Soul, and White Delight. White berries are common and can be found in different regions worldwide. 

These berries are snow white with deep and red achenes or seeds. 

The lack of pigmentation in the berries is due to the lack of the protein fragaria allergen or Fra a1. This protein is instrumental in ripening strawberries, where small green strawberries turn white, yellow, pink, and eventually ripen to red. 

Since white strawberries don’t contain this protein, they don’t turn in color even when they ripen. However, the upside to all this is that Fra a1 is the allergenic compound in berries, so its absence means that eating white strawberries should do you no harm if you are allergic to strawberries.

White strawberries are rich in antioxidants and are sweeter than red strawberries. Other benefits the berries are rumored to have is the ability to improve the immune system and reduce stress and inflammation. Some people even suggest that white strawberries are a remedy for hangovers, but we have yet to test this theory. 

The main downside to these strawberries is they’re a bit expensive compared to other berries. White strawberries are extremely popular in Japan, but they’re continually becoming more readily available around the world. 

Yellow Strawberries 

via natalieionkin

Yellow strawberries are one of the rarest and tastiest strawberries in the world. These sun-kissed fruits are delicate and fragrant, and you’re only likely to find them in the finest restaurants unless you grow them yourself. 

Since this variety of strawberries is a bush type, it doesn’t spread, and you can easily grow one in a container. One of the most famous varieties of yellow strawberry is the pineberry, which has a pineapple taste and is grown in Africa. 

Red Strawberries 

This is the most common strawberry variety. Red strawberries are the most dominant genus, making them widely available. The planting and propagation methods of these Strawberries depend on the climatic conditions of your area.

Alpine Fresca, also known as the Alpine strawberry, is one of the most common red strawberries. This variety grows in clumps, and they don’t vine; hence, they can easily be grown in a home garden. Tasting them will leave your taste buds wanting for more. 

Purple Strawberries 

It may seem unnatural for strawberries to be purple, but not to worry; these strawberries aren’t genetically modified. Purple strawberries were first naturally cultivated at Cornell University. Like yellow strawberries, they’re ideal for potting since they’re bushy, sweet, and fragrant but not great runners. 

Purple strawberries are the nearest we can come to black strawberries when they develop a dark purple color. However, remember that black strawberries don’t exist (unless they are painted).

Even though purple strawberries may develop a dark pigmentation, they’ll never be jet-black, as seen in misleading pictures online. While the color of these strawberries will vary from pale purple to burgundy, it’s important to note that the plant’s color may differ from that of the parent plant. 

Even though it’s tempting to try growing these strawberries, their seeds aren’t commercially available. The only variety you may be lucky to find online is the purple wonder.

Seed Scammers

We all would wish to have an exotic plant, and if black strawberries were real, I would want to grow some, too. Unfortunately, they are just a myth. 

Many scammers prey on unsuspecting gardeners by offering seeds for these strawberries and using edited pictures or painted strawberries. Apart from black strawberries, scammers may also offer brown and green strawberries. These scams are usually supported by pictures of supposedly successfully grown and harvested strawberries. 

These are mythical species of strawberries, and, sadly, one of the downsides of the internet. 

People tend to fall for these scams not only because of the promise of a unique plant but also because strawberries take a long time to mature. However, by the time you discover the scam, it’s too late. 

Additionally, since we have blackberries, blueberries, cherries, gooseberries, raspberries, and all sorts of berry colors, people are convinced that black strawberries may exist.

In plant science, crossbreds emerge all the time, and it isn’t a far-fetched idea to think someone may have experimented and created black strawberries, but they’re yet to be invented.

Seeds scams have become more rampant as victims rarely report the crimes, and large retailing websites rarely follow up on these crimes. Also, many people don’t want to publicize that they have been conned.

Of course, there are legitimate websites where you can buy real strawberry seeds. Make sure you verify a website’s validity before making a purchase.

Most legitimate sites will offer white, yellow, and red strawberries, as purple strawberries are hard to come by. If a seller purports to sell other varieties of strawberries, beware! You may be on the verge of being conned!

Summing Up 

So, do black strawberries exist? The short answer is no. As much as we would want to try one, black strawberries are just a fantasy, and so are blue strawberries.

Strawberries only come in red, yellow, white, and purple colors.

So don’t get fooled by scammers online looking to make the most out of unsuspecting buyers. No matter how delicious and tantalizing the strawberry may look, it’s a ploy to deprive you of your hard-earned money if it’s not among the four colors. 

Don’t let someone sell you an imaginary strawberry species!

Cucumbers are one of the most common fruits (yes, they’re fruits) not only because they make a common ingredient in most healthy salads but also because they have other everyday uses, including being an electrolyte that helps lower blood pressure. 

The indispensability of cucumbers makes them common in many fruit gardens, and while they are thought of as long and green, these fruits can come in various shapes, sizes, and colors.

In this article, we’ll discuss all you need to know about the different plant stages of cucumbers, their features, and what to expect at each stage. 

One of the key factors to consider is the growing conditions at each stage, but not to worry, this article will provide all the tips you need to grow these amazing fruits.

Before we get into it, let’s look at some common facts about cucumbers:

Cucumber Plant Stages

You may be wondering what are plant growth stages? And why is it important to know them? Knowing your cucumber’s plant growth stages is important because it lets you know what to expect at each stage and what your cucumber will look like. This way, if there are any problems or defects with your plant, you can quickly identify them.

The main growing stages for cucumbers include the germination stage, seedling stage, flowering and fruiting stage, and harvesting stage. 

Here is what each stage entails:

Germination 

Before any growth manifests above the soil, the germination stage must be completed below. 

As with many plants, germination is the first growth stage in a cucumber, characterized by the formation of roots below the soil and shoots above. The embryo develops and pierces the outer shell of the seeds, and new growth commences. 

The time it takes for the seeds to germinate depends on the soil temperature as well as other factors such as moisture and air. For example, the seeds may take ten days to germinate if the temperature is below 80℉, but only three days if they are above this temperature. 

It’s important to take note of the temperatures as the seeds may completely fail to germinate if the temperatures are below 60℉.

Tips for Planting Cucumber Seeds

The first step is choosing the right planting spot. The optimal spot should receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. It’s also essential to ensure the soil has an abundance of nutrients. 

The seeds shouldn’t be contaminated and should be sown directly from the seed packets. 

When planting the seeds, space them about three feet from each other and bury them about an inch below the soil. The spacing should be approximately one foot apart if the cucumber plants are grown as vines. 

For people residing in cold climates, using place-row covers is an excellent way to protect your plants.

After germination, the next stage is the seedling stage.

The Seedling Stage 

The second stage in the growth cycle of cucumbers is the seedling stage. Here, the newly growing cucumber plants form the first set of leaves known as the cotyledons.

The formation of real leaves follows this, and the plant can start photosynthesizing for nutrition. As more leaves form on the vine, the plant gets stronger, and the vine grows longer. 

The vine will require support as it increases in size, so it’s advisable to attach them to a trellis. 

Once the vines get to about a foot long, secure them to the trellis or a similar structure using loose ties. Ensure you handle the vines with care so they don’t break. 

If the seeds were grown indoors, you’ll need to transplant the seedlings outside after about three weeks since the seeds were planted. You can also watch out for other signs that indicate the seedlings are ready for transplantation, such as the formation of two or more true leaves on the cotyledons. True leaves should be dark in color compared to the cotyledons. 

When growing the seedlings indoors, ensure you take them outdoors for a couple of hours so that they are in contact with direct sunlight. This reduces the chances of transplant shock. 

Flowering and Fruiting

Did you know that cucumbers produce both male and female flowers?

The male flowers are characterized by a sticky tube in the middle covered in pollen. The flowers are the first to form on the cucumber but usually fall off the vine after a few weeks. 

Female flowers, on the other hand, blossom after the male flowers. They have a bright yellow color and have a central ovary.

Both flowers play a crucial part in pollination, which is an essential part of the plant’s growth cycle.

Once the plant is pollinated, fruit formation will begin. Successful pollination will be exhibited by the flowers falling off, the female pistil gradually drying and dying, and the fruit’s formation.

To increase the chances of successful pollination, take measures to attract pollinators to your garden by growing host plants. 

Alternatively, you can use a paintbrush to fertilize the plant manually by moving pollen from the male flowers to the female organs.

The plant will need more water at this stage due to the fruit formation process. However, ensure the plant isn’t overwatered, as this could lead to the leaves yellowing. 

To improve the water retention ability of the plant, mulch the plant around the roots. This will preserve the cool temperatures and reduce the rate of water evaporation. 

Harvesting Stage

It’s time for all your hard work to bear fruits, literally! Harvesting is the last stage of the cucumber growth cycle. Depending on the cultivar, the maturity period for your cucumbers will vary between 50 to 70 days. 

Determining whether the fruits are ready for harvesting may be difficult. The best time to harvest the cucumbers is before they turn yellow. However, this strategy doesn’t apply to natively yellow cucumber fruits. 

Cucumbers should be harvested once they have matured and are ready for harvest. Letting them linger for too long will cause the skin to become rough, and they’ll develop a bitter taste. Ripe cucumber fruits are usually light green, while dark green indicates they are overripe.

When harvesting the fruits, snip them from the vines rather than pulling on the vine, as this could damage the plant. 

Cucumbers for pickling are ready to be picked at approximately 3 to 4 inches for the common cucumber varieties. The harvesting period for this variety is about 7 to 10 days.

On the other hand, cucumbers for slicing are ready to be harvested when they measure 7 to 8 inches long. This harvesting period will last for about a month or a month and a half. 

Best Type of Cucumbers to Grow 

There are two varieties of cucumbers you can choose to grow in your garden: the bush and the vining varieties. 

Vining Types

This variety of cucumbers will require a lot of space as the vines grow long. If space isn’t an issue in your garden, opt for this variety.

Common cucumber vining varieties include lemon cucumber and apple crystal cucumbers, considered round cucumber varieties. 

Bush Types

These cucumber varieties are the best choice for gardeners with limited space as they don’t take up too much space. They can also be grown in containers.

Common varieties include the Bushel, which makes a good choice for pickling, and the Salad bush, which is a good choice for slicing. 

To give your plants optimal conditions, you can grow them in a greenhouse. This ensures you’re in control of the environment and the growing needs of the plants.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the function of a cucumber?

Cucumbers have several health benefits. For one, they are low in calories, so consuming them may help in weight loss, which is why they make a common ingredient in salads. Secondly, they can help lower blood pressure when mixed with water and used as an electrolyte. 

Thirdly, they are rich in nutrients and have plenty of antioxidants, which help reduce the risk of cancer and other autoimmune diseases. Cucumbers are also good for hydration since they have a 96% water content. 

How much lifespan does a cucumber have?

Cucumbers are annual plants. This means the plant doesn’t continue to grow once it has been harvested. They have a lifespan of approximately 70 days. How long the cucumber will grow after harvest will depend on various factors, such as the weather conditions and the cultivars used.

Summing Up 

Cucumber is one of the fruits that can help you maintain a healthy lifestyle, and what better way to ensure you have access to these fruits than growing them?

Growing cucumbers and watching them grow through all their stages will give you a newly found appreciation for them.

These growth stages include germination, seedling, flowering, fruiting, and harvesting. It’s vital to ensure your plants are provided with the right growing conditions to increase their yields. 

When growing these fruits, research the suitable variety depending on your region and climate. The tips in this article on taking care of the plant at different stages will ensure you have healthy and tasty cucumbers!

A beautiful lawn is the first highlight of a beautiful home. Growing a lush green lawn not only beautifies your space but also provides the perfect environment for relaxing. One of the ways to ensure your sod is healthy is by using the right fertilizer.

The use of sods has become one of the most common trends in landscaping. Sods can completely change the appearance and feel of your garden when prepped right.

Some of the main factors you should consider in new sod care are fertilization and watering. You must ensure the care routine is done well for your lawn to develop roots and thrive.

Different types of grass have different needs, and as such, it’s important to apply fertilizer that’s suitable for your type of grass. One of the critical components of these fertilizers is phosphorus, which is essential in developing roots in your new lawn. 

Here are some of the most effective fertilizers you can use for your lawn.

What is the Best Fertilizer For New Sod?

The best fertilizer for your new sod should promote the development of roots and contribute to the development of healthy leaves. When applying the fertilizer, ensure you follow the instructions on the packaging.

1. Dr. Earth Supernatural Liquid Lawn 

Key Pros

• Easy to use
• It can be applied anytime
• Promotes a vibrant green color 
• Customer review 4.7/5

It’s an effective, easy-to-use fertilizer you can quickly get online. Dr Earth Supernatural Liquid Lawn isn’t only easy to use but will accelerate the development of new grass no matter the time of year you apply it. 

One of the main advantages of using this fertilizer is that it promotes a lush green color once the lawn is established. It’s essential to sufficiently water your lawn once you have applied the fertilizer to facilitate the absorption of nutrients by the grass. For the best results, keep watering the lawn throughout the growing season.

Additionally, the fertilizer won’t affect your soil’s pH; you can use it with almost any soil type. You can use Dr Earth Supernatural Liquid Lawn for newly planted grass seeds, new sod, and reseeding. It’s also easy to apply since you can simply use a hand sprayer for application.

If you notice your lawn is frailing or that the color of the grass has changed, then it may be time to try this fertilizer.

Get it here: Amazon

2. Scotts Turf Builder Weed and Feed

Key Pros

• Both Fertilizer and Weed Killer
• It can be used for warm and cool weather grasses
• Powerful clover and dandelion Control
• Covers up to 5,000 square feet 
• Customer Review 4.4/5

This is one of the best options, especially if you want to cover an expansive space. The fertilizer can cover up to 5,000 square feet and is easy to spread.

You can use the fertilizer for different types of grass, including Ryegrass, Centipede, Zoysia, Bermuda grass, Kentucky bluegrass, and Bahiagrass. 

With Scotts Turf Builder, you get two-in-one benefits: a fertilizer that accelerates the growth of your lawn and a herbicide that’ll prevent the development of weeds. Another advantage is that you can use it even in the dormant seasons. However, certain varieties will only be effective in spring and fall.

Get it here: Amazon

3. Sod Fertilizer- Covers 600 Square Feet

Key Pros

• A Quick-release fertilizer
• Easy to measure and apply
• It can cover up to 600 square feet!
• Balanced 10-10-10 Formula
• Customer review: 4.3/5

Another effective fertilizer that homeowners can use to promote healthy lawn growth. Besides promoting healthy growth, it’s also easy to use and works well with various grass types.

As Sod fertilizer is specialized for sods, it contains all the nutrients needed for the growth of healthy sods. The fertilizer is made of a perfect mixture of nutrients that encourages turf development.

What makes the fertilizer even more preferable is its good ratio of usage. Sod fertilizer covers an entire pallet. This is to say that if you have installed four pallets in your yard, then you’ll need five bags of fertilizer. If you install only one pallet, then use one pack. Easy, right?!

Regarding the application method, the fertilizer should be applied directly to the soil before planting the sod. This provides time for the nutrients to settle in the soil. The application will be practical if you do it during the growing season, so avoid applying it during the cold seasons. A slow absorption rate during the cold seasons could lead to chemical build-up in the soil.

Get it here: Amazon

4. Dr. Earth Super Natural Liquid Lawn Fertilizer 32 oz RTS

Key Pros 

• Non-toxic
• Made from recycled ingredients
• Contains NPK in ratio 3-0-1 (Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium)
• Can cover 1200 square feet 
• Customer review: 4.4/5

Another product from Dr Earth that could transform your lawn. This is yet another liquid fertilizer!

Liquid fertilizers aren’t only sustainable in the long run but are also non-toxic, making them safe for pets and children. This is the fertilizer if your lawn is a place to chill and relax. 

The fertilizer contains a unique formula that suits turfgrass, bringing more color and vibrance to the lawn. Dr. Earth Super Natural Liquid Lawn Fertilizer 32 oz RTS is an all-season fertilizer that you can use for warm and cold-season grasses.

To achieve optimal results, apply the fertilizer to already established sods, even though you can also use it for grass seedlings. 

Don’t get alarmed by the funny smell you may notice from the fertilizer. That’s its typical smell and will likely disappear in a few days. A small price to pay for a beautiful lawn!

5. Penterra Soil Penetrant and Wetting Agent

Key Pros

• Controls moisture levels in the soil
• Encourages water penetration and uptake
• Liquid fertilizer
• Can Loosen up the soil
• Customer Review: 4.3/ 5 

Penterra Soil Penetrant and Wetting Agent is another fertilizer that’ll benefit your lawn. This fertilizer promotes water movement and the rate of absorption in roots. It also deters erosion and improves nutrient intake in the grass, even for hardy landscapes. 

Penterra soil Penetrant fertilizer is the perfect option for those looking to loosen up too compact soils to promote better root system development. 

One of the key differences between this fertilizer and other fertilizers is its application method. Since it’s a liquid fertilizer, you must dilute it because the ingredients may be too strong. Ensure you check the instructions on the packaging before applying. 

Penterra will not only fertilize your plants but also solve common issues such as lawn dry spots and encourage water intake. The fertilizer is also effective in improving the soil structure, ensuring it’s hydrated for extended periods. 

Typical fertilizer applications are in sports fields, resorts, and even golf courses. So you can be sure proper application will give your grass the best glow.

However, one precaution you should take when using the fertilizer is to ensure you don’t apply it before seeds have germinated if you are growing your grass from scratch.

Get it here: Amazon

6. Scotts Turf Builder Thick’R Lawn Bermudagrass

Key Pros

• Promotes the growth and development of roots
• Delivers all essential nutrients 
• A 50% thicker lawn
• Fix patches and gaps in the lawn
• Customer Review: 4.1/ 5

A granular fertilizer that’s perfect for the growing season, from late summer to early spring. Once you have applied the fertilizer, it’s essential to water your plants for maximum absorption. 

This grass feed differs from other fertilizers since it contains grass seeds that’ll fill out patches in your lawn. The seeds also make your lawn 50% thicker. Moreover, the fertilizer promotes the growth of big and robust roots.

Even though you can apply it to different types of grass, the fertilizer will yield the best results when applied to Bermudagrass. 

Get it here: Amazon

Commonly Asked Questions

When is the best time to fertilize my new sod?

If you are fertilizing for the first time, the best time to fertilize your new sod is about six weeks after planting. After this time, grassroots are already well-developed and can easily absorb nutrients.

In some cases, the roots may have trouble developing, requiring early fertilization, which should be done four weeks after planting. The fertilization time will also depend on the type of grass you have grown. Some grass types, like St. Augustine grass, must be fertilized about one month after planting. 

If you need help determining when to fertilize your lawn, perform a soil test. A soil test shows the concentration of chemicals in the soil and what nutrients the soil needs to grow and develop your grass.

How often should you fertilize new sod?

The frequency of fertilization mainly depends on the type of grass that you have grown and the fertilizer you are using. Liquid fertilizer, for example, will be effective if applied once a week. 

On the other hand, if you’re using a slow-release fertilizer such as granular Nitrogen fertilizers, apply it once during the growing season. These fertilizers have an abundance of nutrients enough to last throughout the season. 

For other types of fertilizer, the frequency of fertilization should be between 3 to 4 times during the growing season. This is roughly once a month, but be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions as displayed on the packaging. 

After fertilizing a new sod, what’s next?

Fertilization isn’t the only care guide for your lawn, so you should continue taking care of the yard by watering it regularly and ensuring the soil doesn’t dry out. 

It isn’t advisable to mow your lawn immediately after fertilization as this could cause too much stress to the roots trying to absorb the nutrients. Wait for about two days before mowing. 

Summing Up 

With so many options available, choosing the right fertilizer for your lawn may be challenging. However, the choices we have provided are some effective products that may work for your new sod.

When choosing a fertilizer for your sod, consider these three points: the type of soil you have, the type of grass you have grown, and the amount of fertilizer you’ll need. 

The best fertilizer for your lawn should supply all the needed nutrients to the soil, like potassium, nitrogen, iron, carbon, and phosphorus. These nutrients encourage better root formation, creating a vibrant, healthy lawn! 

As a beginner gardener, a plant-loving friend of mine advised me to build a garden bed first. It sounded so strange, and I couldn’t understand it then.

I always considered gardening a straightforward task: digging holes and planting seeds. I didn’t even put much consideration into the type of plants I was going to grow!

I was also unaware that I could utilize space more effectively if I grew shallow-rooted houseplants. 

Shallow rooted plants are the perfect choice for a beginner gardener, especially if you have a small garden. This is why picking plants according to their root type is essential.

This article will discuss various shallow-rooted houseplants, herbs, and veggies. They are pretty easy to grow and will adorn your garden; others are even delicious!

Shallow Rooted Plants

Stepping into the plant world can sometimes be confusing – so many plant parts, species, genera, and families – the list always continues!

However, you’ll quickly learn the ropes once you start growing plants.

The most important thing to remember is that plant flowers, stems, and leaves can’t be produced when there’s an insufficient amount of food.

Plants can have deep or shallow roots, and that’s where food comes from. For instance, cucumbers have only one root: the taproot.

These roots take up a lot of space beneath the ground and can grow deep.

Some plants, on the other hand, have shallow roots which occupy only a tiny space beneath the surface of the soil.

Some vegetables with these roots include radishes, spinach, kale, and broccoli. Flowering plants like petunias, hydrangeas, salvias, hostas, and azaleas also have shallow roots.

Furthermore, houseplants such as panda plants, snake plants, some succulents, and herbs like basil, rosemary, and mint have shallow root systems.

Let’s dive into the details!

Vegetables with Shallow Roots

various plants which share this feature, including kale, cabbage, and broccoli.

Other shallow-rooted veggies you can grow include onions, spinach, chard, or radishes.

Broccoli

You’ll start seeing roots developing during the second broccoli growing stage. One exciting thing about broccoli roots is that they begin growing at great depth, but the root growth rate declines as the plant matures.

You can grow broccoli from seeds or stems. The vital information you need to understand about broccolis is that the variety will determine the depth of the root system.

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Regular fertilization is the best way to encourage broccoli’s growth since the veggie needs a lot of nutrients.

Broccoli plants require moist soil to thrive, so water them at least once a week.

Kale

Kale can thrive in chilly weather and is a veggie suitable for shallow pots.

Plant your kale in a pot filled with 6 – 8 inches of suitable potting mix at about half an inch depth.

The only thing you need to pay attention to when planting is the spacing between each kale plant; 4 inches will be okay for smaller varieties.

Don’t expose your kale to high temperatures; it can lead to low-quality crops, decreased growth rate, and bitter taste.

Kale can’t tolerate waterlogged soil due to their shallow roots, making them highly susceptible to root rot.

The soil should be moist but never soggy.

Spinach

Spinach is another shallow-rooted plant, and you don’t have to be an expert gardener for your spinach to flourish.

You can grow spinach in containers, making them an excellent option for beginner gardeners. Put your spinach seeds into a 6 – 8-inch deep pot. New spinach plants have a fast growth rate, so you’ll be harvesting within no time!

The width of your container will determine the number of spinach plants you can grow in it.

Spacing is another critical factor when growing spinach; leave a space of about 5 – 6 inches between each plant.

Water the plants frequently and apply a slow-release fertilizer. You’ll also need to find a good sunny spot for your spinach to thrive.

You may require grow lights if you decide to grow your spinach indoors.

Radishes

Radishes are perennial plants that don’t require deep soil, even though they grow beneath the surface.

Radishes are suitable for container gardening, and you can use them as a companion for other container plants since they prevent pests from attacking other veggies.

You’ll need to find a sunny spot for these veggies since they don’t tolerate shade. Apply a phosphorus-rich fertilizer for optimal growth.

Overly wet or soggy soil is a big issue for radishes, mainly seeds. As such, ensure you don’t overwater them, or else they’ll die!

We recommend using drip irrigation systems for the best outcome.

Cabbage

Cabbage is quite a big plant, but you’d be surprised at its roots below the soil line.

The variety of cabbage usually determines the length of the roots, but standard cabbage varieties typically have approximately 18 – 30-inch deep roots.

The Chinese cabbage’s roots can reach up to 2 inches deep.

Similar to other shallow-rooted plants, cabbage also requires frequent watering. However, cabbage plants have a much better drought tolerance than their cousin broccoli.

Frequently water your cabbage at the end of the growing season since underwatering can lead to the heads splitting.

Use a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to have cabbage plants with a fantastic taste!

Onion

Onions are biennials with shallow roots, and you can find them in almost every vegetable garden.

Onions have ten growing stages, which they can go through quickly if all their requirements are met. You won’t spend much time caring for your onions, so don’t worry.

Onions require well-aerated, loamy soil and are acidic-loving plants. They also thrive in full sun; some varieties require 14 hours of direct sunlight daily!

Spacing is crucial in onion growing, and you should separate your onion seeds about 2 inches apart.

Furthermore, you’ll need to provide your onions with about 2 inches of water weekly to reach maturity.

Garlic

Garlic is an easy plant to grow, and it’s on our top 10 list of veggies due to its amazing taste. Shallow-rooted garlic varieties can develop roots even up to 2 inches long.

Watch for pests that may attack your garlic, and fertilize it regularly.

Mulch the soil to aid your garlic if you live in climates susceptible to frost. You can remove the mulch after the winter months have passed.

Avoid planting your garlic near plants with the exact nutrient requirements since it’s very competitive regarding nutrients.

Arugula

Arugula is a low-maintenance veggie with roots that can grow from 12 – 18 inches long.

Arugula requires rich, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 – 6.8. Don’t let the soil completely dry between waterings since these plants prefer moist soil.

Try growing your arugula in a raised bed; you won’t regret the outcome!

Shallow Rooted Flowering Plants

Now that we’re done with the veggies let’s focus on flowering plants with shallow roots!

Rhododendron & Azalea spp.

Planting shallow-rooted azaleas can be a bit tricky since you might have a case of ‘sinking’ roots if you grow them too deep.

Mulch your plants with something like pine needles to avoid this. You’ll help the soil retain moisture and protect the roots.

You’ll need to deadhead your azaleas and rhododendrons after blooming to encourage vegetative growth.

Winter can be challenging for these plants. Therefore, protect your plants with burlap or add layers of mulch as the winter months approach.

Salvias

Salvias are probably one of the most low-maintenance plants you’ll ever encounter. They require a lot of direct sunlight to produce their beautiful flowers, which come in shades of pink, purple, yellow, white, and red.

Add garden grit and compost to ensure good drainage and a sufficient supply of nutrients. Compost is actually the only fertilizer your salvias will need!

Lilacs

Lilacs are shallow-rooted, old-school flowering shrubs or trees. 

Lilacs can grow fine independently since they aren’t fussy plants and are pretty well-known due to their beautiful and fragrant flowers.

Water your plant when there isn’t at least 1 inch of weekly rainfall.

Triple 10 fertilizer is ideal for these plants since they’re susceptible to overfertilization; apply it in late winter.

Also, add mulch and compost to your lilacs to help the soil retain moisture and give your plants sufficient nutrients.

Hostas

clay-based soil and simply require well-drained soil.

Use regular potting soil if you plan on growing hostas in pots, and amend the soil with organic matter.

Hostas aren’t drought-resistant, so they won’t flourish in more extended periods of drought.

The good thing about hostas is that temperature and humidity don’t affect them; they keep growing.

Wind is the main thing to be concerned with regarding weather since it can damage your plants.

We recommend using compost only if you choose to feed your hostas.

Periwinkle

Periwinkle is another shallow-rooted plant and belongs to the Vinca family. Periwinkles are typically grown as groundcovers.

We recommend growing periwinkle for beginner gardeners since it’s a hardy perennial that can survive even the most harsh conditions.

Encourage the growth of your periwinkles by providing rich soil and enough dappled sunlight.

However, as stated earlier, periwinkles can flourish in any condition.

You can choose between major (bigger) and minor (smaller) varieties.

Barrenwort

Barrenwort is a shade-loving epimedium and shallow-rooted perennial.

This unusual plant has colorful flowers and heart-shaped leaves, making it a favorite among many enthusiasts.

Barrenwort can survive harsh conditions and thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 – 9.

Barrenwort is also a suitable plant for beginner gardeners since it’s drought-tolerant. Provide your barrenwort with a company of flowering bulbs for the best results.

Bugleweed

Bugleweed works great as groundcover and is a very common shallow-rooted plant.

Encourage your bugleweed’s growth by providing abundant sunlight and a humid environment.

Bugleweed is considered invasive in some places in America, so be very careful with it.

This attractive plant has colorful flowers and dark green leaves and is the best option if you’re unsure of the correct growth conditions.

Lavender

It’s almost impossible to choose between the scent and color of the amazing lavender plant!

Lavender thrives in shallow soil and doesn’t have deep roots. Even though lavender can tolerate partial shade, we recommend exposing it to direct sunlight as much as possible.

Ensure temperatures range between 70 – 75℉.

Lavender can grow in almost all soil types. However, it would be best to base your watering schedule on your chosen soil type.

You won’t have to supplement the soil with organic matter or boost the growth of your lavenders.

Petunia

Petunia plants have trumpet-like flowers, which give them a top spot on the list of most beautiful plants.

You need to pay close attention to moisture since petunia plants have pretty shallow roots, and the soil may dry quickly.

We recommend adding organic matter to the substrate to avoid problems with dry soil. Organic matter helps with water retention.

Petunias won’t tolerate temperatures below 40℉. Therefore, it’s vital to regularly fertilize them and provide them with full sun to experience the true beauty of the flowers.

Zinnias

Zinnia plants are ideal if you want a plant to act as a border.

Zinnias are sun-loving plants, so place them in the right spot.

Avoid placing your Zinnias in wet soil since their shallow roots can rot quickly.

Zinnias aren’t picky regarding soil; they can grow even in poor soil.

Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas can’t grow well in poor soil that retains too much water and prefers organic matter, unlike Zinnias.

Hydrangeas aren’t heavy drinkers and require at least 1 inch of water weekly to thrive.

You can feed your hydrangea with fertilizer, but the hydrangea variety will determine what fertilizer you can use.

We recommend performing a soil test before you begin adding supplements.

Shallow Rooted Herbs

The following is a list of popular herbs perfect for indoor container gardening and outdoor gardening.

Mint

Mint belongs to the Lamiaceae family and is a low-maintenance perennial with a distinguishing scent.

Mint is a pretty common plant and very popular among spice-loving fans since it’s one of the hardiest plants and can grow anywhere.

A distinctive characteristic of mint is that it has a stem that bends over when mature and can produce roots when it comes into contact with the soil.

As such, mint can spread rapidly, and you’ll have to control its growth unless you want your garden to be full of mint!

It would be best to dedicate a particular area for only the growth of mint to control its growth easily.

Mint requires high humidity, rich soil, full sun or partial shade, and watering during dry periods to thrive.

We recommend growing the peppermint variety if you reside in USDA hardiness zone 3.

Rosemary

I’m sure you’ve encountered rosemary, especially if you have tried Mediterranean dishes.

You can grow rosemary in your garden, making any dish tastier! Rosemary is also ideal for container gardening.

This long-lasting plant requires a lot of full sun and flourishes in warmer climates. You must provide it with well-draining soil for it to last.

Your rosemary won’t need much fertilizer; add a liquid-balanced fertilizer or compost to the soil to give this fragrant plant the nutrients it needs.

Basil

If you ever thought that basil was Italian, think again! It’s actually an Indian herb!

You can grow basil as a perennial if you live in USDA hardiness zones 10 -11.

Consequently, you can grow basil annually in all other USDA hardiness zones.

The goal should be to produce many leaves and promote bushy growth when growing this herb. Still, this can be challenging since you need to trim the top leaves once the plant starts to mature.

Letting your basil bloom will produce seeds instead of leaves, leaving you with many seeds but only a few leaves.

You’ll also need to provide your basil with direct sunlight for a couple of hours daily and regular watering. Add a nutrient-rich mulch to help the soil retain moisture.

Unlike other shallow-rooted plants, your basil will require food to produce tasty leaves.

Houseplants with Shallow Roots

The following list includes plants you can grow in shallow pots and adorn your home decor.

Snake Plant

The snake plant is one of the most popular houseplants in the world.

The name has no relation with snakes, of course, nor does it attract any. The snake plant is a low-maintenance plant that boasts remarkable, variegated, succulent-like leaves.

Most people are usually concerned about the growth rate of snake plants since they may sometimes seem as if they aren’t growing at all.

They get pretty tall when they reach maturity, so these plants having shallow roots is somewhat surprising.

Snake plants flourish in bright, indirect light and well-draining soil.

You can easily overwater this plant since it has shallow roots. Therefore, change your watering habits if you notice the snake plant’s leaves splitting.

Snake plants can thrive in different temperatures, but the most ideal would be between 65 – 85℉.

Use a 10 10 10 fertilizer diluted to half strength to boost the growth of your plant twice during its growing season.

Panda Plant

The panda plant, also known as Kalanchoe tomentosa, is native to Madagascar. This plant has a cheery appearance that your children will surely adore. However, the plant is toxic to pets, so keep it away from dogs and cats.

The panda plant requires bright indirect light to flourish, but the shallow-rooted succulent can also benefit from a little direct morning sunlight.

Keep in mind that succulents can store water in their leaves. Therefore, they don’t require much water, especially during winter. Don’t allow your panda plants to sit in waterlogged soil.

Soil suitable for succulents and moderate humidity is an excellent combination your panda plant will appreciate.

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera leaves contain a soothing gel with numerous health benefits, making it a common houseplant.

The plant is also relatively easy to grow, making it ideal for beginners.

Aloe vera prefers acidic and sandy soil, so we recommend buying a ready-made succulent soil mix to avoid complications.

Where your aloe grows will determine the amount of lights it needs. For instance, outdoor aloe vera plants benefit from direct morning sunlight and some afternoon shade.

Indoor aloe veras, on the other hand, don’t tolerate direct sunlight, which can scorch their leaves or permanently damage the plant.

Zebra Plant

This is the perfect plant for those who love challenges! Even though the zebra plant is regarded as an easy-to-grow plant, a few things might need to be corrected. 

First, it requires high humidity (about 70%) and warm temperatures (over 60℉). The soil should be moist, and you shouldn’t expose your plant to direct sunlight as it can kill it.

Conversely, keep your zebra plant away from total shade since it won’t bloom without light.

You’ll need to fertilize your plant every two weeks during its growing season.

Your shallow-rooted zebra plant will flourish in no time if you meet these requirements.

Prayer Plant

plants.

Ensure your plant receives plenty of food, good airflow, high moisture, and warm temperatures if you decide to grow it; these are conditions found in greenhouses,

Prayer plants are prone to root rot and don’t like soggy soil.

Well-draining soil is crucial for prayer plants. Furthermore, use an all-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer to feed your plant every two weeks during its growing season.

Summing Up

I hope this article has helped you find inspiration for growing shallow-rooted plants!

We highly recommend these plants to beginner gardeners since they’re the easiest to repot houseplants and ‘hardest’ to kill.

Easy repotting is essential as it helps you deal with problems such as overwatering quickly, giving your plant a high chance of survival.

The only thing left is to get yourself a shallow-rooted plant and enjoy its growth! 

 Ciao! Until next time!

Hibiscus shines with beauty throughout the summer, and growers do everything possible to ensure their plants are healthy and pest-free. However, issues may arise, and you must care for them to save your plants.

The Hibiscus belongs to the Malvaceae family, and it’s a remarkable herb suitable for container and in-ground gardening.

There are numerous varieties, including hardy hibiscus and tropical hibiscus varieties. The needs of each variety are paramount since some species can’t flourish in certain places.

In this article, we’ll discuss 7 hibiscus diseases and pests, how to identify them, and their treatment methods. Additionally, we’ll provide you with the best prevention methods to save you the time and effort you would use to deal with these pesky issues.

Let’s take a look.

7 Hibiscus Diseases

Hibiscus are generally troubled by diseases such as root rot, bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, botrytis blight, rust, and wilt disease.

In this section, we’ll examine the symptoms of each disease and how to solve them.

1. Root Rot

Generally, root rot is the most common plant disease, which also applies to the hibiscus plant. If you are a houseplant grower, this notorious disease being on the list shouldn’t come as a surprise.

Water stress is the leading cause of root root, and it occurs when soil becomes wet for too long. Most plant enthusiasts actually prefer hibiscus plants since their watering needs aren’t much.

However, low watering needs also lead to a high risk of overwatering the plants. The Phytophthora fungus species are responsible for root rot, and they start to appear once the soil becomes waterlogged.

Air can’t circulate in the soil since all the air pockets have been clogged by water. Eventually, the roots stop breathing. Their structure significantly changes, and they lose their original structure.

Signs of Root Rot

Some common indicators of root rot include the yellowing of leaves and their subsequent death. Once you notice such signs, you need to check the root system. Healthy hibiscus roots usually are solid and white.

Treating Root Rot

First, you need to remove your hibiscus from the container or soil.

This will be relatively simple when dealing with a potted hibiscus plant. Ensure you don’t use too much force while removing your hibiscus plant to avoid further damage to the already weak plant.

It would be advisable to loosen the soil around the plant using garden tools and then remove it gently. The next thing you need to do is dry your hibiscus. However, ensure it doesn’t dry out entirely since it can lead to more complications and even death of your plant.

Place your hibiscus plant in a shady spot for around 30 minutes to dry.

Fungicides don’t work on rotten roots, so they won’t help here. Use sanitized shears or pruners to cut off the affected roots.

You can apply fungicide to the remaining healthy hibiscus roots once you are done with pruning. Plant your treated hibiscus in a fresh medium, and ensure you don’t overwater it again.

2. Botrytis Blight

Botrytis blight, also called gray mold, is a common fungal disease that forms on hibiscus plants’ leaves, flowers, and buds.

The disease is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, and older hibiscus flowers are more prone to its attack.

Signs of Botrytis Blight

Infected flowers are usually coated in grayish, fuzzy lumps and get brown, papery blotches.

You can also notice some brown patches resembling targets on the hibiscus leaves.

Treating Botrytis Blight

Using proper sterilization techniques will significantly reduce the risk of infection. This includes cutting off decaying or dead flowers and trimming the plants.

First, dry off the infected areas before cutting off the diseased tissue. Please put them in a plastic bag and dispose of them.

Ensure you don’t water over your hibiscus leaves. Incorrect spacing is another factor that contributes to the development of Botrytis blight. Ensure there’s enough space between your plants to improve air circulation.

You can also treat this disease using chemical solutions, but ensure you pick products with registered substances. Refer to the product’s label for indoor use guidelines, safety warnings, and dose recommendations.

3. Powdery Mildew

Many gardeners fear when they see a white powder substance on hibiscus leaves. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that develops on warm days and cool nights in early autumn and late summer. The disease doesn’t necessarily harm your plant; it’s just awful-looking.

However, powdery mildew can affect the plant’s health if left untreated.

Signs of Powdery Mildew

The most common sign of this fungal disease is powdery white growth on the leaves. This is during the early stages of the infection.

The disease spreads more and more as your hibiscus matures if you don’t treat it.

Over time, the white spots turn gray, significantly increasing in size, covering the entire leaf surface.

Stunted growth is another frequent indicator of powdery mildew disease.

Treating Powdery Mildew

Using chemical fungicides, you can quickly eliminate this problem, but this should be your last resort!

You can employ other methods to treat powdery mildew before resorting to chemical fungicides.

It would be best if you stopped feeding your hibiscus plant before you started using any of the solutions listed below.

One excellent natural solution for eradicating powdery mildew is neem oil, which works almost every time.

Dilute 2 tbsp of neem oil in 3.8 L (1 gallon) of water for optimal results. Put your solution in a spray bottle and apply it to the plant weekly until the disease is totally gone.

Baking soda is another natural solution you can use for this problem. Dilute some few drops of vegetable oil and 1 tsp of baking soda in 4 cups of water and spray the solution over your hibiscus leaves.

4. Bacterial Leaf Spot

Bacterial leaf spot is caused by the Pseudomonas cichorii bacteria, and it’s a disease that often attacks hibiscus plants.

The Pseudomonas cichorii thrives in rainy and wet climates and is spread through splashing water.

Signs of Bacterial Leaf Spot

Lesions on the hibiscus leaves are the most common signs of bacterial leaf spot.

These lesions are usually brown with black margins and are encircled by a yellowish halo.

Treating Bacterial Leaf Spot

Removing the affected leaves is the only way to treat bacterial leaf spot. First, use bleach or a similar sanitizing solution to clean your cutting tools.

Cut the affected leaves and place them in an air-tight plastic bag. This is a very crucial step since the Pseudomonas cichorii bacteria can survive on dead leaves. Therefore, leaving them on the ground won’t stop them from spreading.

Properly dispose of the diseased leaves to avoid further spread of the disease.

5. Rust

Rust is caused by the soil-borne fungus Puccinia malvacearum, and it’s a prevalent disease in the Malvaceae family’s species.

The fungus responsible for this disease can survive harsh winters, spreading fast and affecting the whole plant.

Water encourages the spread of this disease, making it even harder to treat.

Signs of Rust

Your hibiscus plant will display yellow or orange spots on its leaves if it suffers from rust disease.

The first leaves to be affected are the lower ones. The hibiscus stem may also exhibit brown spots.

The undersides of the leaves also become covered in pustules (reddish-brown bumps) as the infection spreads.

The hibiscus leaves will develop holes and likely die if the infection is severe.

Treating Rust

Once this disease progresses, it becomes challenging to treat it. Remove the affected leaves and treat the hibiscus plant with a fungicide once you notice orange or yellow spots.

If available in a nearby agricultural store, you can also use custom fungicides made specifically for rust disease on ornamental plants.

Treating the affected parts with fungicide protects new growth.

If chemical solutions aren’t your preference, try preventing the disease from spreading. Dispose of the plant if the infection is severe.

6. Wilt Disease

Wilt disease is a common problem in many plant varieties. It is caused by the Verticillium and Fusarium species of fungus.

Some people confuse this disease to root rot, but they are far from similar.

Root rot is usually characterized by the yellowing of leaves. However, if you notice your hibiscus leaves are shriveling and not turning yellow, you are probably dealing with wilt disease.

Signs of Wilt Disease

The leaves of a hibiscus plant usually retain their original green color when it has wilt disease. As the plant wilts, the foliage slowly turns deep green, brown, and black.

Your whole plant, or at least half of it, will have wilting leaves if it has been affected by wilt disease. So if you notice one wilted leaf, that’s not wilt disease!

Treating Wilt Disease

Saving an in-ground hibiscus plant is quite challenging, especially if the wilt disease infection is severe.

This disease can’t be treated by chemical solutions; no products are on the market. Ensure you dispose of the infected plants and let the soil rest for at least 5 years.

If your hibiscus plant is potted, mist it regularly and don’t place it in direct sunlight. Never fertilize, repot, or prune diseased plants.  

7. Dieback Disease

This disease is caused by bacteria or fungus entering the hibiscus stem via a wound. These wounds can be created accidentally as we prune our plants.

Signs of Dieback Disease

This disease is also characterized by wilting.

However, unlike the wilt disease, whereby the whole plant or one side wilts, dieback disease is characterized by wilting of one branch while other parts of the plant seem ‘healthy.’

Treating Dieback Disease

Removing the wilted branch is the best treatment for dieback disease. You’ll need to keep on cutting to see the wound since you might easily miss it at first glance.

Make a precise incision below the nodes to trim it once you locate it.

Pests That Affect Hibiscus Plants

Severe pest infestations pose a significant threat to your hibiscus plant. They can easily and quickly kill your plant, and you must treat them in the early stages.

Some pests that attack hibiscus plants include aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, thrips, mealybugs, and scale.

Some indicators of a plant infested with pests include webbing, black or red spots, browning, wilting, and yellow leaves. These signs will vary depending on the pests you are dealing with.

Let’s dive into the details of how to treat pests that affect hibiscus plants.

Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that create a mottled appearance on the hibiscus plant foliage by sucking juices from plant parts.

These insects live in colonies; you can see them in rows on the flower buds and hibiscus stems. 

They come in different colors, including green, black, white, or red.

Wondering how you’ll know if your hibiscus plant is attacked by aphids? Look for ants! Aphids excrete honeydew which ants love. Honeydew may also cause sooty mold to develop.

Aphids tend to rapidly increase in population when left untreated, which could cause severe damage.

Other indicators of an aphid infestation include deformed, yellowing, and curling leaves.

Treating an Aphid Infestation

Insecticidal soap is one of the best ways to deal with pests during flowering. There are many great types of insecticidal soap available on the market. Still, you have to be careful with their application and dosage.

Use a garden hose to wash the plant’s leaves before using any product. This will significantly decrease the number of aphids on your hibiscus plant.

Another ingenious strategy for dealing with these pesky pests is buying beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings.

Whiteflies

Hibiscus plants are usually attacked by three types of whiteflies:

1. Silverleaf whitefly
2. Sweet potato whitefly
3. Greenhouse whitefly (glasshouse whitefly)

These white, gnat-sized pests typically feed on plant fluids from the underside of the leaves. You can spot them by shaking your hibiscus plant; you’ll see a cloud of them! Whiteflies can tolerate the winter outdoors in zone 7 and above.

They cause the dropping off, shriveling, and yellowing of hibiscus leaves. Whiteflies also excrete honeydew, causing a sooty mold.

Treating a Whiteflies Infestation

Yellow fly traps are an effective method of controlling these pests. Place the traps on the soil or near the plant, and they’ll take care of the rest.

Another way of eradicating whiteflies is by pouring vinegar into a shallow dish and adding some drops of dish soap. This is relatively simple and very efficient.

You can also put an overripe fruit in a shallow dish instead of vinegar and dish soap. Wrap the dish with a plastic bag and poke some holes in it. 

Spider Mites

Spider mites are very tiny creatures that are difficult to spot with the naked eye. Webbing in leaf axils and branch crotches is a common indicator of a spider mite infestation. Shake a branch of your plant over a sheet of paper or use a magnifying glass to spot them.

These pests also cause mottled leaves by removing fluids from them. Hibiscus foliage withers and dies if the infestation is severe, but with the proper treatment, your plant will survive.

Spider mites also lay eggs in plant soil, which poses a considerable problem. Therefore, you’ll need to treat the whole plant if infested.

Getting rid of spider mites basically solves the problem since mature spider mites can’t survive without plants.

Treating a Spider Mite Infestation

Neem oil is a popular solution for most growers dealing with a spider mite infestation. It’s a natural product that doesn’t have any chemical compounds. Hence your plant and its roots will be safe.

Other options you can opt for include insecticides, rubbing alcohol, or insecticidal soap.

Thrips

Bud drop is one of the most significant indicators that your hibiscus plant has thrips. This is because the adults lay eggs on the plant’s flower buds, and the larvae feed on it. The buds of your hibiscus plant will change color and drop off even before flowering.

Another sign of thrips is scratches on your plant’s flowers and leaves.

Treating a Thrip Infestation

Neem oil and insecticidal soap are ideal natural solutions against thrips. Observe the hibiscus plant and apply the remedies all over your plant.

Thrips are excellent at hiding. Therefore, ensure you spray the undersides of your hibiscus leaves as well.

You can resort to pest control products like Spinosad if the insects are difficult to eliminate with other methods.

Ensure you pay attention to application and dosage when using chemical products.

Scale

Scales resemble small, brown, or black raised dots on plants. Adult female scales can reside in one area their whole life; they don’t move! Their children, on the other hand, move briefly after hatching and begin laying eggs once they’ve found a place to settle.

When the infestation is severe, you can see these pests with the naked eye. They suck out the sap from your plants and steal essential nutrients.

Similar to other hibiscus pests, scales also encourage fungus growth and produce honeydew, which creates a blackish mold.

Treating a Scale Infestation

Isolating your hibiscus plant is the first step in treating a scale infestation. This obviously works for potted plants only.

Scraping is usually followed; you should try to scrape off as many pests as possible.

Cut off the most affected leaves if the infestation is severe.

Other excellent methods of treating scale infestations include insecticidal soap, isopropyl alcohol, and neem oil.

You can treat your hibiscus with pesticides if none of the above methods work.

Note: Insecticidal sprays can’t penetrate the armored shell of scales, making them ineffective. As such, look for systemic insecticides to control scale infestations.

Mealybugs

Mealybugs are white, soft-bodied pests that frequently attack the Peach hibiscus or the Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. 

They feed on plant fluids, preventing flowers from opening and causing stunted growth. They also encourage the development of sooty mold since they produce honeydew. You can see them in crotches of stems and branches and at bud and leaf axils.

Treating a Mealybug Infestation

Rubbing the leaves with a soft sponge dipped in rubbing alcohol is one of the easiest methods to treat mealybugs.

Other solutions to kill these annoying pests include horticultural oils or insecticidal soap.

Preventing Hibiscus Plant Diseases And Pest Infestation

Hibiscus plants are an excellent addition to any outdoor or indoor setting. Hibiscus tea has numerous nutritional benefits, and the plant attracts hummingbirds and smells fantastic.

You won’t have to worry much about diseases and pests if you properly care for your hibiscus.

In this section, we’ll discuss tips to prevent your hibiscus from being attacked or infected by pests and diseases.

1 Light: Hibiscus plants need a lot of sun to thrive, but a bit of shade can be beneficial, especially in places with warm climates. Place your hibiscus near a sunny window if you plan on growing it indoors for optimal results.

2. Humidity: Hibiscus plants love high humidity levels. We recommend growing hibiscus indoors if you live in a highly arid area. This way, you can maintain and control the correct humidity level easily.

3. Watering: All hibiscus species flourish in moist soil, so frequent watering is crucial, mainly when potted plants are involved. Avoid watering these plants too often if you are growing them in-ground. Only add water when it doesn’t rain for a while.

4. Temperature: A tropical hibiscus will thrive between 60-85℉. In contrast, hardy hibiscus varieties can tolerate extremely low temperatures up to -20℉.

5. Soil: Well-aerated and properly draining soil is ideal for hibiscus plants and will prevent many problems. Add perlite to your soil to improve air circulation.

6. Feeding: Plant foods with high concentrations of minerals like potassium and nitrogen are ideal for these flowering plants. Use a liquid fertilizer for indoor plants and a slow-release fertilizer for outdoor plants.

7. Pruning: Hibiscus plants usually display new growth in spring. As such, we recommend cutting the plants at the beginning of spring or in late winter. You can also encourage new growth by deadheading spent flowers and removing discolored or damaged leaves.

8. Transplanting/repotting: Place your hibiscus seedlings outdoors to adapt to the environment and avoid transplant shock. Ensure you repot your hibiscus in a larger pot with fresh soil when it becomes root bound if you grow it in containers.

Final Thoughts

The thrill that comes with growing hibiscus plants is like no other. These plants are relatively easy to care for and have numerous health benefits. Additionally, their flowers will liven any dull place you place them in.

Like every living creature, plants also face problems. The faster you start treating issues affecting your hibiscus plants, the sooner they recover.

We discussed 7 common hibiscus pests and diseases, how to identify them, and their remedies.

You can quickly solve these problems by following our advice.

Bugs can be annoying, especially when they start invading your private space. But do you know what’s more annoying? Bugs that seem to spawn out of thin air like water bugs!

These critters will mostly appear in the summer, and if left uncontrolled, they can become a menace.

One of the most common questions for plant enthusiasts is, “why do water bugs appear in the summer?” and this is for a good reason.

In this article, we’ll explore why these tiny bugs like visiting during summer and discuss their natural habitat. The article will also explore common areas where the bugs are likely to hide in your home and how to know if it’s an infestation you are dealing with.

If these insects have wreaked havoc in your space, don’t worry. You’ve come to the perfect place to learn how to deal with them. 

Let’s get to it!

Why Do Water Bugs Come Out In The Summer

The main reason that water bugs come out in the summer is their natural habitat dries up due to the hot temperatures. Hence, they have to seek alternative sources of food.

Water Bugs are aquatic pests from the Hemiptera order that also contain other critters like scorpions.

So, why would these bugs invade our households?

The answer is simple: it’s a matter of humidity and moisture. Our houses have high humidity in the kitchen, bathrooms, and various water sources during the summer. This makes for a very attractive habitat for these bugs.

Areas with damp conditions, such as the basement, are a perfect place for water bugs to infiltrate.

You must be wondering what happens to the bugs during winter, but don’t let these bugs fool you. During the winter, they hibernate, and if the problem is not dealt with in the summer, they’ll resurface.

Compared to other pests, such as bed bugs, the only upside to water bugs is that they’ll not infest the home for the entire year. Houses aren’t the natural habitat for these bugs, and they are likely to inhabit other places once the summer is over.

While most bugs, such as roaches, are afraid of bright light, water bugs are actually attracted to it, making them even more menacing. You’ve likely seen these bugs under overhead lights.

Where Do Water Bugs Come From?

Even though houses aren’t a native habitat for these aquatic pests, they’ll do very well in damp areas. Damp outdoor areas are like vacation homes for these bugs!

Their native habitats are wet areas, mostly around marshes, ponds, sewage systems, and pools of standing water. 

As previously stated, water bugs are also attracted to neon and street lights.

As for food or causing destruction in a home, these bugs’ main delicacy is aquatic food such as small fish. Therefore, they’ll rarely be attracted to anything you have in your home. This is a good thing since they aren’t likely to survive permanently in the household.

Little creatures like insects are also a delicacy for these bugs.

Where To Find Them 

As we have previously stated, water bugs are attracted to aquatic sources in your home.

Here is a list of the common places that make for a perfect temporal habitat for these bugs.

• Kitchen: The kitchen is one of the high-humidity rooms in your home due to the variety of water and food sources; food leftovers may also attract other bugs, such as German cockroaches.
• Bathrooms: For obvious reasons
• Basements 
• These bugs can also thrive on your porch or garden.

What Are The Entry Points Of These Bugs Into Your House

Whenever you notice some bugs in your house, your first cause for concern should be to determine the entry point of the bugs.

Here is a list of the possible entry points for aquatic bugs:

• Toilets
• Drains
• Faucets 
• Baseboards
• Sewers
• Leaky pipes
• Crevices 

The most common place to find these bugs is on the drains since pests are likely to breed in such places. The presence of other pests and water will certainly attract these bugs.

Water bugs are so unpopular because they aren’t afraid of humans. Imagine using your sink, and a water bug suddenly appears. Shocking right?

These bugs will travel up or down the plumbing pipes to get to places such as the toilet. One of the main reasons that water bugs invade the toilet is infrequent flushing. The standing water in the toilet will attract the bugs. 

Once they invade the toilet, these bugs are likely to inhabit places with leaky faucets.

In places like basements, these aquatic bugs will invade due to the leaky drainage systems pipes near them. 

Baseboards, on the other hand, are where these bugs nest, so they may also be a common entry point.

The Signs Of Infestation

Pay close attention. The following are the signs of a water bug infestation.

• The presence of a small number of water bugs- While this may not be an immediate cause for concern, many other water bugs may lurk around, so don’t take it for granted.
• Unpleasant smell- During mating, these bugs will release an odor with a foul smell to attract mates. In cases of infestation, this odd smell will spread throughout the house. 
• Leftovers of shells and dead skin- This is one of the surest ways of detecting an infestation. In an infestation, there’ll be traces of shells on the floor of bathrooms or kitchen cabinets. These shells can also be found in breeding places once the eggs have hatched. 
• Dark-colored streak marks- Once they have invaded a place, water bugs will likely leave droppings on floors, shelves, near baseboards, and even on plates if food leftovers are left overnight. 

How To Get Rid Of Water Bugs

Already have water bugs in your house? Don’t worry! There are two easy ways to remove them from your household.

The first method is natural, and while it’s an easy solution, it may not always work.

Alternatively, you can use chemical-containing products to remove the bugs. This method is more efficient and will remove the bugs sooner.

So how do you get rid of water bugs? Here are some common natural substances that you can use:

• Soap
• Alcohol
• Baking soda
• Vinegar 
• Natural pesticides (Boric Acid is a good example of this)
• Essential Oils (Citronella or peppermint)

Using these natural solutions is easy. Simply pour them into the water bugs’ nest. 

Sprinkle a thin layer over the nest when using remedies such as boric acid. Since it’s toxic to aqua bugs, they’ll die when they ingest it.

Adding sugar to the boric acid will create an even more effective remedy. This mixture can be sprinkled in places with high moisture content or where the water bugs appear. The sugar and boric acid mixture acts as a trap for the bugs.

As for essential oils, the best way to apply this solution is by mixing them with water and spraying them over the nest.

Lastly, there is the diatomaceous earth method. This is a popular natural remedy that kills water bugs instantaneously. 

Pest Control 

A pest infestation can have grave consequences. If you are afraid of these bugs’ impact on your household, you should seek help from pest control companies.

Professional exterminators have all the tools and remedies to get rid of water bugs for good. Expert exterminators will find and stop common breeding places and entry points of these bugs. 

How To Prevent Water Bugs Infestation

An infestation of water bugs is a major cause for concern. Besides the foul smell that these bugs will emit during the mating period, they can also invade your personal space and make your home a living hell. 

Here are some tips to prevent these bugs from making your home unlivable.

• Clean your drains regularly. This includes toilets, bathtubs, and sink drains.
• Get rid of water puddles. Aqua bugs thrive in these puddles, and removing them will prevent them from spreading. 
• You can use several home products to treat drains, but vinegar is one of the most effective solutions, so make use of it. 
• Repair any leaky faucets in your home to prevent water puddles.
• If you notice any damaged pipes, replace them immediately.
• Crevices and holes are common places where these bugs lay and hatch their eggs, so if you notice any, seal them.
• Ensure your home is properly ventilated.

Are Water Bugs Dangerous?

Even though these bugs will not make you their next meal, they bite! They are known for biting between toes hence the name toe biters.

One of the common ways that water bugs attack is when you are swimming in your pool or even in your bathtub.

The bites don’t result in significantly larger health issues, but allergic people can react differently. Even though it’s very rare, there can be cases of swelling up or vomiting after a person has been bitten.

How to Treat the Bug Bites

Use a bandage to prevent itching, and try not to scratch the wound.

You can apply antibacterial ointment, hydrogen peroxide, or rubbing alcohol to clean the wound and stop potential infections.

Water Bugs vs. Cockroaches

This is one of the most common misconceptions. Even though the two are very similar in appearance, it’s important to note that they are completely different insects.

Water bugs indeed closely resemble cockroaches that survive in water, such as American or Oriental cockroaches.

However, there are significant differences regarding color, location, size, and how they bite. Cockroaches are sometimes referred to as brown water bugs, but this is far from the truth since the two aren’t similar.

In fact, cockroaches and water bugs belong to two different orders. While water bugs are from the Hemiptera order, cockroaches come from the Blattodea order, including insects such as termites.

Secondly, water bugs are darker in color, black or brown, while cockroaches are light brown or tan.

In terms of size, water bugs are slightly larger than roaches. Aqua bugs can grow up to 2 inches, while cockroaches will grow up to 1.5 inches. 

Another key difference is that roaches have antennas. In contrast, water bugs have pincers around the mouth hence the ability to bite.

Now for the interesting part. Which of the two attacks humans? Well, water bugs are the culprits here. Roaches don’t attack humans and will, in fact, flee if they sense danger from humans.

Water bugs, on the other hand, are more hard-headed; they tend to bite humans, and when they sense danger, they prefer to attack rather than flee. 

This makes cockroaches less dangerous than water bugs, but none of them are desirable, so get rid of them as soon as you see them. 

Commonly Asked Questions

Now that we’ve discussed all you need to know about water bugs let’s look at common concerns people have.

Can water bugs lay eggs on your skin?

Fortunately, no. Water bugs will not lay eggs on human skin since they prefer debris or floating vegetation where the conditions are ideal.

How do they know when to come out?

Like many insects, water bugs emerge once they sense food and temperature changes. The availability of a water source where they can survive will attract these bugs. They also prefer humid high temperatures, so they’ll come out in the summer.

Why are there so many water bugs?

Under ideal conditions, water bugs will mate and multiply quickly, increasing in number. So, it’s better to ensure there are no water sources where they can thrive.

How do water bugs survive cold winters?

These bugs survive the winter by finding a place with stable temperatures. Since they detest temperature fluctuations, they’ll either hibernate or find an alternative shelter.

Bottom Line

Don’t let water bugs ruin your summer. These bugs prefer the summer season and can be a nuisance to an otherwise exciting season.

Even though these bugs are annoying and probably scary, they don’t pose serious risks to humans (unless you are allergic).

Use the preventive measures we’ve discussed in this article, and if they do appear, use the several solutions we’ve provided to get rid of them. 

Goodbye for now, and don’t let the water bugs bite!